For all fans of miniature microcircuits and amplifiers, we invite you to familiarize yourself with the model digital amplifier PAM8610 D - class. Its dimensions are comparable to an ordinary 10 ruble coin!

Features and Specification

Power	frequency range	Supply voltage
10 W	8 ohm	20 Hz to 15 kHz	12 V
15 W	4 ohm

The amplifier has connection markings. For example, to connect a wire to it, you need to find connectors with the inscriptions - R_IN and L_IN, which means right input and left input, respectively.

The channel outputs, there are also two of them (left and right), unlike the input, are not marked with inscriptions like OUT.

They can be defined as follows: if you hold the amplifier with the inputs down, then the left output will be on the right side of the board.

There you will see two holes with the letters L- L+. And the right one is, accordingly, on the left. It is marked with the letters R- R+.

Finally, 12 volt power is supplied to the top connectors.

To amplify the sound, you will need to connect the right and left audio speakers to the amplifier. Connect the amplifier to the computer and power supply.

The computer is connected to the R_IN and L_IN channels. And the amplifier has 12U power connectors.

Despite the fact that the board indicates 12 Volts of input power, up to 15 Volts can nevertheless be supplied to it and the amplifier will normally withstand this voltage and operate.

Tests and comparisons

Test No. 1.

A sound check with the amplifier turned on showed that the sound was very dirty. Moreover, at first glance, it is not clear whether the speakers are emitting noise from the power supply or from the connected computer.

At 50% sound power, the diffusers of the device begin to crackle and it becomes clear that they cannot withstand any more sound level and will begin to wheeze. In addition, there is no need to talk about any low-frequency sounds.

Test No. 2.

The amplifier runs on a 12 Volt battery.

What happens after connection? The unpleasant background sound is still present. It is no longer as pronounced as in the first case, when we tried to power the amplifier through a 15 V power supply.

It is possible that this background appears due to the computer's sound card.

But then the question arises: why is it quieter than before?

Having launched a music track on a computer, from the first seconds it becomes clear that the sound has become many times clearer.

The noise and rattling are gone. The “middle” (mid frequencies) became easier to hear. Low frequencies, unfortunately, did not increase.

So. Comparing the 15 V power supply and the 12 V UPS battery, we can say that, unfortunately, this amplifier does not work well with the power supply.

Because noise is constantly heard, there is a slight rattling and a constant background. Especially when the music is not on.

Working in conjunction with a 12V battery showed that the amplifier can produce good sound. Especially considering its low cost and miniature size.

Therefore, this board will be able to handle the sound of small rooms, although it will not satisfy fans of pure sound and low frequencies.

Test No. 3.

We are trying to eliminate the background by changing the sound source. That is, we reconnect the amplifier from the computer to regular smartphone(in our case this is an iPhone).

The result was unexpected. The background that was heard when the music was turned off completely disappeared. From which it became clear that everything was to blame sound card computer.

Connecting an oscilloscope instead of speakers

The oscilloscope display shows the noise amplitudes. Even if you disconnect your smartphone from the amplifier, noise still remains at the outputs of this device.

Now with the help special program To measure sound quality, a special sinusoidal signal is sent to the amplifier.

An ideal sine wave will be shown on the smartphone screen.

But the oscilloscope will show a completely different curve, on which only the peaks and the zero point coincide. The edges of the signal do not resemble a sine wave at all.

If you apply a triangular signal to the source (instead of a sine wave), the oscilloscope will still show the same signal (waves similar to wine bottles).

This test indicates that the amplifier can only control the signal in peaks. This board cannot control intermediate portions of the signal.

It turns out that the quality of the amplifier does not even reach a “three” on a five-point scale. It can be used in some low-frequency section that will not be audible to the average user.

Even if you reduce the signal to 100 Hz and 40 Hz, the signal on the oscilloscope will still not be reproduced perfectly.

You can test the sound quality experimentally (by connecting the oscilloscope directly to your smartphone, without an amplifier).

It turned out that without an amplifier, the output signal is ideal. That is, the oscilloscope was able to repeat all the signals from the smartphone. These are a regular sine wave, a 1000 Hz sinusoid, and a 100 Hz sinusoid. The triangle signal was also reproduced perfectly.

From this we can conclude that the 8610 frame amplifier introduces its own negative adjustments to the output signal, distorting it and making it much worse than the original one.

Amplifier test with a separate speaker.

An interesting thing happened after using the amplifier with a former working USB speaker.

If you remove the variable resistor from it and simply remove everything else. Then connect the amplifier to the speaker, the noise disappears completely!

Listening to music at low volume showed that all distortion disappeared.

This means that the cause of all noise interference was interference.

When connecting a multimeter as an ammeter and listening to music at full power, it turned out that consumption fluctuated at a level of up to 700 mA.

If you check music with low bass, the average consumption becomes 1a. When power is applied, the volume does not increase sharply, but rather does it very smoothly and pleasantly.

In the end, we can add that this amplifier is quite sufficient for home use. The sound, ultimately, is not bad at all, considering the cost and size of the amplifier.

Expert opinion

Ilya. Suzdal.

For normal music playback, I had to go through almost all the connection options for this amplifier: with speakers, a computer, a smartphone, a power supply. It turned out that the purest sound is reproduced without this amplifier. Which is very sad.

Maksim. Belgorod.

It is possible that to obtain a cleaner sound you will need to abandon the services of this amplifier. But. This is only the case when it is used as an intermediary between output devices (speakers) and music player. When using an amplifier as an element regular USB speakers, there are almost no complaints about the sound. By at least, if you do not measure the signal on special devices, such as an oscilloscope.

In general, if your hands grow from the right place and can hold a soldering iron, then you can easily integrate this board into some speaker and get quite high-quality sound.

Once upon a time, audio amplifiers (ULF) were large, with a bunch of tubes, huge radiators for transistors, and heavy transformers in the power supply. But life does not stand still. Now compact microcircuits with digital ULF have replaced tube and transistor dinosaurs in almost all consumer devices. You can easily design a compact amplifier, for example on the PAM8610 chip. The power supply from the review was used for power supply.

The ULF on the PAM8610 exists in several versions and is quite inexpensive. For example, you can buy it here -. It was decided to use a ready-made board with a volume control and soldered connectors. There is also an ultra-budget option. It was reviewed here on the website -. Why this particular amplifier - price and very good impressions from the younger models PAM8403/PAM8406: , .
Let's see how the older amplifier model performs.

Module characteristics:
Power supply 7-15V, recommended 12V
Power up to 10 W per channel at 8 ohm load resistance
Protection against short circuit, overheating
Amplifier efficiency up to 90%

Judging by the description, excellent characteristics for such a baby.

Photo:




The flux is a little not completely washed off.

The speaker connections are not indicated in any way. It was found out empirically and using a similar slightly different board:


Power plug - center "+", around - "-"

The microcircuit under the radiator of this amplifier version is good. Jumpers on the board - one temporarily turns off the sound (mute), the second I don’t know.

To power the structure, it was decided to use the power supply from the link at the beginning of the review. This power supply has been reviewed in great detail. The power supply works well in extreme conditions, is compact and inexpensive. Theoretically, you can get a total power of about 12 watts per two channels with this power supply. Or real about 5 watts per channel. I was satisfied with this power supply and the ULF power. For greater gain of the microcircuit when using a signal source in the form cell phone or the DAC needs to use pre-amplification in front of the microcircuit, which I did not want to do. And 5 watts of power per channel is enough for my purposes. But we will still test the ULF and PSU chips in different modes and on a load of different resistance.

Power unit:

To test the load we use powerful resistors 4 Ohm, 6 Ohm, 8 Ohm per 100 Watt:


You can buy them here

We connect all modules and resistors.

We take measurements.
The amplifier supply voltage is 12 V, a signal of 1000 Hz is supplied to the input sound generator. Power is calculated by the square of the voltage at the output of one channel of the amplifier (measured with a voltmeter alternating current) when the load is connected, the load resistance is divided

First group of tests
Normal source (phone or DAC). Uin = 0.15 V. Testing was carried out on the power supply from the review, without preliminary amplification. In all cases, the overheating protection on the microcircuit and the current protection on the power supply did not work.


I have speakers with a resistance of 4 Ohms - the first line is my mode of using the amplifier.

Second group of tests
Disabling the power supply from the current protection review. We increase Uin until the protection on the power supply is triggered. This mode is possible when using a pre-amplifier (for example,) before the amplifier from the review

Third group of tests
Limit mode. A laboratory power supply is used. The tests are completed if the amplifier chip turns off due to overheating (the temperature of the chip in this case is more than 100 degrees Celsius). In reality, to implement this mode, you need a more powerful power supply (12 V 2 A for example) and preliminary signal amplification.


I think more power than stated was achieved using a radiator on a ULF chip.

Tests may be useful if you are going to use this ULF chip for your amplifier or make a powerful one portable speaker with preamplifier and powerful battery.

Chip heatsink temperature. The radiator here is good. But there are versions of this board without a radiator.

Temperature at resistors:

If there is such a temperature here at 9 Watts, then what will happen when testing a 100 Watt amplifier?

Sine wave test. We apply a 1000 Hz sinusoid to the input and use an oscilloscope to see what we have at the output of the amplifier.

18+ Readers with unstable mental health should not watch

Amplifier input:


Output at very low volume:


Average volume level:


Sine wave at maximum. The ULF chip is on the verge of shutting down due to overheating.


I was surprised by the results - the younger PAM8403/PAM8406 output with a sine wave is ok. Maybe I mixed something up when measuring. I went online and found a video review of a similar microcircuit - . True, your friend there did not connect a load to the output and carried out tests without a preamplifier (he did not bring the microcircuit to its maximum modes).

After completing the tests, I decided to refine everything. Components for assembly:

The router is used as a . I asked for it in the same way as the review. A toggle switch was also made for a regular linear input.
The case was purchased offline for 400 rubles - the cheapest in terms of price-size-quality ratio.


It turned out like this:




Initially, a 12->5 V DC converter based on a PWM controller was installed. But I had to install a second 5V power supply for two reasons:
1. Interference. I removed the ground loops, but some interference (possibly from the converter) remained.
2. In case of overload, the power supply is switched off by protection - the router is overloaded and this is not good - it takes a long time to overload.

Result:






My mini hi-fi system:


For my tasks (sounding the bathroom and corridor), the power of the power supply and the sound quality from the ULF are quite enough.

The product was provided for writing a review by the store. The review was published in accordance with clause 18 of the Site Rules.

By chance I received rear speakers from a home theater, and I wanted to use them as computer speakers. To connect passive speakers you need an amplifier, which is why I purchased a PAM8610 module. The module is simple, quite powerful and cheap. Thanks to the 12-volt power supply, it is easy to record it from a computer power supply and even integrate it into the system unit. The PAM8610 is described in detail on the Internet, for example here: However, in the standard connection I encountered difficulties in the form of strong noise. Needed some work...
First, I connected the amplifier in the usual way: a cable with a minijack through a dual 10 kOhm potentiometer. And I was very disappointed by the high noise level, which was noticeable even with the volume control at the minimum position. Even worse, the speakers reacted with crackling and grinding noises to movement. wireless mouse. Experiments with replacing the power supply with a laboratory one, and then with a battery, did not produce any effect. But when I connected an mp3 player instead of a computer, the noise decreased significantly and the tone became less annoying. It became clear that the problem was in the signal source and excessive amplification. According to rough estimates, a 10-fold gain (20 dB) is sufficient, since the computer produces a signal with an amplitude of approximately 1 volt, and an amplifier with a 12-volt power supply can output approximately 10 volts to the speaker. All that remains is to figure out how to reduce the gain. Reading the documentation helps in this matter. I recommend the old datasheet. For some reason, the document on the manufacturer’s website diodes.com is missing some pages. The PAM8610 has a DC volume control function, in other words, volume control using direct current. It works like this: the VREF pin is supplied with a voltage corresponding to the maximum volume, and the VOLUME pin is supplied with the current voltage. The entire range is divided into 32 intervals, each of which corresponds to a certain gain. For example, if VREF=5 volts and VOLUME=3 volts, 3/5*32 = 19.2, the gain should be looked at in the 20th line of Table 1: 21 dB. But you can not bother with calculations at all, but simply send the VOLUME signal through a variable resistor with a resistance of 10k-100k. In addition, this approach allows you to use the most common resistor. In the classic regulator circuit, a special dual resistor with a logarithmic characteristic is placed at the amplifier input. If you use a regular linear one, the volume is adjusted unevenly: at first it increases sharply, and then practically does not increase. Even with double resistors, the resistance may vary unequally, then the speakers sound at different volumes.
Unfortunately, the specified module does not provide contact pads for the volume control, so you will have to cut the tracks. The extreme terminals of the potentiometer must be soldered to ground and the +5V mark, and the middle one to vol.

But that is not all. To further reduce interference noise, you need to add a low-pass filter. I limited myself to an RC circuit at the input, soldered SMD capacitors to the board, and mounted resistors. At the same time, I replaced the ceramic input capacitors with film capacitors. The result is the following diagram:

R1 and C3 form a low-pass filter with a cutoff frequency f =1/(2π*R1*C3). At the indicated ratings, it is 72KHz. In general, the indicated denominations can only be used as a starting point, and the final ones can be selected experimentally by ear. Capacitance C1 is selected based on the low frequency cutoff frequency f =1/(2π * R *C1), where R is the input resistance of the amplifier from Table 1 in the datasheet plus R1. With the indicated ratings and the maximum position of the volume control, the input impedance of the amplifier is 21 kOhm, and the lower cutoff frequency is 34 Hz. This is more than enough for my 70Hz-20kHz speakers. If you need to expand the range towards the bottom, you need to increase the capacity of C1. But you shouldn’t get too carried away so as not to overload the speakers. Resistors R3, R4 are jumpers that are installed instead of original ceramic capacitors.


Redesigned board.


Amplifier assembly. Housing - cover from the distribution box. The heatsink is made of an aluminum strip, to which the board is pressed through a thermally conductive gasket. The input capacitors and resistors are soldered by surface mounting; after final adjustment, they are filled with hot glue.

The result is this design.
Unfortunately, I cannot provide test results to the RMAA. Since this amplifier is made using a bridge circuit, you need to measure the signal at the speaker terminals, and not relative to ground. That is, you cannot connect the amplifier directly to the line input of the sound card. You need a professional sound card with a balanced input or a separate amplifier to measure the differential signal.
As for subjective feelings, I am completely satisfied with the result. The sound is comparable to SVEN “wooden” computer speakers. But the speakers are powered by system unit and turn on and off with it.
PAM8610 fully justified itself. The only note is that you don’t need to take the most cheap fee so as not to redo it later. Next time, if I need to do something similar, I will look for a board with wiring for a volume control.

Hi all.
In this review we will look and listen to the PAM8610 class D amplifier. It's made for portable acoustics, on its basis you can assemble a long-playing loud speaker system.
This is the cheapest copy available on Aliexpress.

Let's start with the basic technicalities. characteristics

Power - 10w*2 at 8 ohms, and 15w*2 at 4 ohms (power values ​​at 10% distortion)
Power supply 7 - 15v (recommended 12v 3a)
Class D
Efficiency: 90%

More details are in the datasheet.

Dimensions only 29mm*25mm

Real photo


It is very small, the chip is generally tiny)

Soldered the wires and fixed them with hot glue

I connected it to the power supply, turned it on and got a terrible noise. (speakers 15 ac 109)
Need a volume control. But until I connected it, I decided to listen to how it plays.
Connected to the player - the noise is less, but still present.
After listening for a short time at low volume, the sound was with noticeable distortions and overtones, in general it was not ice at all.
When you turn it up louder it’s much better, but you can still sometimes hear distortion when certain moments in music.

“Well, okay,” I thought, “I’ll listen to it fully when I find and attach a volume control, in case the noise bothers me.”

And then I remembered that I have a dead usb speaker. I removed a variable resistor marked b50k (50k, linear) from the board, and removed the rest. I connected everything as needed, fixed everything with hot glue. It turned out like this


I didn't find the switch, so I left it as is. I wanted to connect a standard LED, but it is 5V, and the power supply is 12V. I didn't bother.


I just ran the wires out the back.

Now there is no noise.

I started listening - at low volume the distortion went away, which means the interference was really interfering.

I connected the multimeter in ammeter mode. I turned the music on full blast until the distortion started. Consumption ranges on average from 300 to 700ma. I turned on the music and the bass - maximum 1.3a, average consumption 1a.
I noticed a peculiarity - when power is applied, the volume increases smoothly.

In terms of volume and sound quality - the volume is enough for a home, to my ears the quality is not bad. There is bass.
And if you listen on the street, you don’t need anything more.

A short review and how it plays by watching the video

In my plans I also want to add a converter so that it can be powered from a power bank. The required converter is already on its way. I don’t know what will happen, but it will be interesting)

In general, this amplifier impressed me, like the previous pam8403)
I was pleased with the sound quality.

I'm planning to buy +81 Add to favorites I liked the review +44 +90

REVIEW OF POWER AMPLIFIERS

POWER AMPLIFIER PAM8403. 2 CHANNELS EACH 3 W.

This power amplifier is distinguished by its miniature size and relatively high output power, since it is a class D amplifier. The PAM8403 chip has two bridge channels providing an output power of 3 W into a 4 Ohm load with a supply voltage of just 5 volts. The oscillation frequency is 260 kHz, which allows you to cover the audio range with a rollover at the edges of only 3 dB.
Schematic diagram miniature amplifier power is given below:

The assembled amplifier board looks very compact and does not require any explanation about the connection:

Judging by the number of orders, these amplifiers are no longer sold by the piece, but by the kilogram...

And of course, a few reviews on this amplifier:
Delivery was on time, the amplifier itself made a splash on my mind, how can such a piece of crap work so well!? I planned to connect it to small speakers, but as it turned out, it pulls great and the speakers are more powerful, a real thing!
I don’t know how it’s 15 watts, but it works clean and loud
I received 2 copies. I've only checked one so far. I loaded the speakers with S-30. Power source 12 volts 4 amperes. Signal source: computer linear output. To the ear, the sound is very decent. I didn’t do any characterization, and it’s not necessary. It couldn't be better to use as an amplifier for a computer, TV or other small portable speaker system. There is no noise when connecting the input with a shielded wire.
the expected result coincided with many reviews, the amplifier operates from a 9 and 12 volt unit, when connected to the equipment, the background disappears, high-quality cords and cables will help... you can load it to full, but a radiator is very necessary, when loaded at 50% everything is ok. I inserted it into an external car speaker, for moments on vacation when connected to a laptop, it works. When listening to music from a smartphone, it began to “swallow” load peaks by more than 80% and reduced the sound by itself,
Amazing amplifier! I used it in my DIY mobile speakers and it works very well! The sound quality is excellent. There is some noise, but it's quiet and you can't hear it when you're playing music, for example. I run it on 2s 7.4 Lipo. he plays loudly, but it depends mainly on what Acustic systems you are using. Recommended so much!
Delivery took less than a month (I paid extra for delivery). The amplifier is working (don’t attach three padded jackets to it, otherwise it will burn the fuck out, but if you do, listen at the second volume level (if from a phone)). The amplifier is working and for such a price it doesn’t carry too badly (with cooling it can stretch a Vega speaker to middle volume (from the phone). There was no need to contact the seller. From me 5 stars to the seller. P.s. I played music from a phone that HAS EQUALIZER FX!!!
Updated reviews
and yes, I soldered it to the aux input, and when you pull out the plug it makes a lot of noise (well, pretty much everywhere), I asked a friend and he said that it should be so, well, I resigned myself, and before pulling out the plug I will turn off the power.
With high-quality food, the sound is very high quality. When the SW jumper is closed, the volume gradually fades to zero, such as the mute function. When opened, the volume smoothly returns back.
The sound quality is worse than I expected
The board does not use the volume control output of the microcircuit. This is not an amplifier, but an interference receiver!
The product was poorly packaged due to which several parts were broken off during transportation. The result is inoperability of the amplifier.

POWER AMPLIFIER FOR TDA2030. 15 W.

Fans of traditional class AB can recommend power amplifiers based on the TDA2030 chip. This amplifier has deservedly gained popularity, since this chip requires a minimum of external components and provides quite high-quality sound.
Please note that most amplifier boards are designed to connect unipolar power supply. Single boards with a small radiator are not designed to receive maximum power:

Personally, I am more impressed by boards for self-assembly of an amplifier. They are somewhat more expensive and you will have to solder yourself, but this option has much greater versatility. The board of such a power amplifier looks like this:

There are quite a few options for amplifier designs on the TDA2030, ranging from the single-channel options given above to 2.1 systems, where two microcircuits are connected as a bridge for the subwoofer.
For those who have problems purchasing radio components, the most optimal option would be one with an already installed tone control and volume control; this option requires a bipolar power supply:

The amplifier on the TDA2030 chip has the following characteristics:
Maximum output power 18W
Supply voltage 9...24 V (the microcircuit can operate up to 36V supply, but you should check the voltage of the electrolytic capacitors - the Chinese can put capacitors at a voltage of 16V, but this is not enough).
Load resistance 4...8 Ohm
With an output power of up to 10 W, the THD level is no more than 0.1%.
There are also power amplifiers based on the TDA2050, but for some reason they are too expensive.

From personal experience A few tips you can ignore:
There is no need to receive more than 60 W from one chip - it is difficult for it to transfer heat to the radiator.
There is no need to fence bridge and parallel connections - this greatly reduces the reliability of the amplifier.
For those who have collected a couple of copies and are ready to prove with foam at the mouth that everything works, I will tell you that I have collected more than a hundred different versions of amplifiers on the TDA7293 and I can report: everything really works, but in order for it to work RELIABLE additional measures are required, so For radio amateurs on a budget, it's better not to take risks.

Well, a few reviews:
checked the amplifier, quality product, I advise the sound is good
Great amp! I connected the trans and that's it. Walked for a long time
I installed it in 101 instead of the old transistor ones. for s 90 it’s even enough.
Everything is fine. Delivery on the last day of the first defense. The seller extended it for 40 days. But it wasn't needed. Good quality. I checked everything. The quality is super sound. 5+
I checked everything, everything works, the soldering quality is normal, I just had to wash off the flux
The seller did not send what I ordered. 300 rubles somewhere fucked up... It's a shame. Doesn't respond to SMS
Updated reviews
At first the seller sent the wrong product. After the dispute was closed, I immediately sent my order 1st class to M.O. 6 days. Thank you very much to the seller for your understanding. 5☆☆☆☆☆
They arrived quickly, are already working, fully correspond to the description. Good signet, track layout, no noise, no noise.
One of the two amplifiers arrived in normal condition, the second sparked and smoked and there was a sharp hum in the speaker. I don't recommend it, the quality is crap...
I ordered two amps, one working, the other burned out in a bright flame
The product arrived to be faulty, it was noticed that there was a swollen capacitor, thus a burnt leg of the chip, the seller will return my money, after a dispute

POWER AMPLIFIER MX50. 2 CHANNELS EACH 100 W.

Two 100 Watt power amplifiers entirely transistorized without using SMD components. Supplied in a self-assembly package. The kit includes printed circuit board and a set of parts. It is extremely rare that a circuit diagram on paper is included - sellers refer to the fact that everything is written on the board. Just in case, below is circuit diagram of this amplifier, which we managed to find:

The power amplifier has two main subgroups, depending on the supplied final stage transistors. One cheaper option uses a pair 2SD1047 - 2SB817 or 2SA1941 - 2SC5198. With a power supply of ±42 V into an 8 Ohm load it is capable of developing 100 W. The second option is equipped with 2SA1295 - 2SC3264. This option is also promised 100 W at 8 Ohms, but if they promise to equip them with ORIGINAL SANKEN, then the collector power of these transistors is 200 W, therefore, with a power supply of ±40 V into a 4 Ohm load, this amplifier can safely deliver 150 W. Of course, this amplifier option is somewhat more expensive. The remaining characteristics of this UMZCH are given below:
Supply voltage: ±15 V to ±45 V
Output power: 100W8R (±42V)
Voltage gain: 34 times
Input Sensitivity: 1.2V 100W RMS 8 Europe
SNR: more than 98dB
Distortion:< 0.009 THD 1 К ГЦ 10 Вт
Quiescent current 30 mA
Single channel board size: 76mm*73mm

Frankly speaking, so much power is unlikely to be needed for domestic use, however, class D power amplifiers deservedly take their place in household appliances, and their simplicity and compactness make it possible to assemble lightweight and powerful amplifiers audio frequency. The use of a specialized IRS2092 microcircuit makes the assembly and configuration of the amplifier quite simple. For those who do not need 2 kW at home, there are much simpler and cheaper options:

How to determine what transformer power is needed for an amplifier is shown in the video: