How to disassemble the ss 667 q5 flashlight. Fake flashlight with zoom on CREE diode. Why do flashlights break?

Hi all! Reviews on Mysku of this either a flashlight or a shocker encouraged me to buy it as a dog repeller. The device came to me partially working: the flashlight was shining, the shocker was sparking, but the battery was not charging from the mains. Therefore, the lantern was disassembled, as a result I myself was somewhat shocked by its internal contents, although I assumed that I would see something similar. My review is an addition to existing reviews, that is, a description of the internal structure of this flashlight-shocker.

I bought the flashlight after the review, this was my second order from TinyDeal. The order arrived to me after about 50 days, in a “simple” (as the postal workers put it) parcel without any registration - postal notices are not sent even to the addressees for such parcels. This was the first time I received such a parcel.

I brought it home, unpacked it, examined it, checked it. The flashlight works, the shocker sparks quite loudly, which is what I needed. Among the defects, I immediately noticed a crack on the plastic glass covering the flashlight, and in general the glass itself was somewhat cloudy. I shook the lantern - nothing seemed to be loose inside it.

I involuntarily tested the shock on myself when I pressed the “start” button once without making sure that the “shocking” was turned off. It so happened that I was holding the lantern by the body, and my hand slightly touched the “crown” of the lantern. The electric shock was quite strong, without a spark discharge, and it pierced the plastic of the crown, since I did not touch the contact plates. I have been repeatedly shocked by voltage sources ranging from 110 volts to 30 kV (the scars still remain), and in general I am not very sensitive to this, since the skin on my fingers is quite rough. I assess the “shocking” effect of the flashlight as quite strong, approximately equal to an electric shock from a 220-volt network. 380 volts struck me only once, and this was perhaps the most dangerous case. The kilovolts in this shocker are purely for the visible effect, and to pierce clothes. If the goal is to shock rather than spark, then a voltage of 500 volts would be sufficient, given that the current would increase significantly. Well, the place where the current is applied is very important.

After playing with the flashlight a little, I didn’t bring it to the point where the battery was completely drained, but I still decided to charge it: it was interesting what happens when you plug the flashlight into the mains for charging. It turned out - nothing! Nothing at all! The LED at the end of the flashlight handle did not light up, and by all indications, charging was not taking place. Okay, I checked the cord (who thought of making the cord so short?!) - the cord is fine. So why isn't it charging? I clicked the switches - the result was zero. The review says that charging from the mains occurs only when the switch at the end of the handle is in the “On” position, but in my case nothing changed.

Without much hesitation, I unscrew the two screws securing the plastic back of the flashlight to the metal one. With a little effort, I remove this plastic part from the lantern. And there…

I took photographs after I had disassembled everything, so some of the photos appear to be “advanced.”

I haven’t seen such a collective farm for a long time... the wires from the terminals for connecting the charging cord are soldered to the capacitor and the rectifier assembly hanging on the terminals of the capacitor. The wires from the output of the rectifier assembly go deep into the device.

The capacitor even had its housing material crumble due to excessive bending of the lead.

And the main thing is that all this is not insulated by anything, not even just a roll of electrical tape over the conductor with the rectifier. If you consider that the wires are thin and the quality of the insulation does not suffer, then you can quite expect a short circuit and fireworks. There is no fuse. A short circuit inside the flashlight can also be caused by self-tapping screws sticking out inside the flashlight that secure the back cover. It’s good that at least the connections of the wires to the high-voltage converter are insulated, I should have checked what was there, soldering or twisting, but I forgot to do this.

Next, we look more closely inside the back cover and find that the charge indication LED is soldered through a resistor to the terminals, that is, it should light up immediately when external power is applied, and stay on all the time while the flashlight is connected to the network. The review says that the LED goes out when the battery is charged - is there really a charge controller in that lantern? I doubt something, maybe there is an inaccuracy in the review? Well, it is clear that the switch does not need to be switched to “On” for charging; it is connected to the high-voltage generator circuit, and not to charging the battery.

But why doesn't the LED light up when external power is applied? It is unlikely that it has been faulty like this since new. Ah... Here's the thing... The LED, along with the wire going to the rectifier, just stupidly fell off the terminal: bad soldering. Well, now it’s clear why there is no charge and the LED doesn’t light up. I'll solder it.

But since I partially disassembled the lantern, I couldn’t stop there. Moreover, I already saw the end of a plastic cylinder, inside of which two wires went. I guessed that this is a 400KV high voltage generator, as its description on Aliexpress says (review). But if there is a voltage converter here, then where is the battery? I pulled the voltage converter towards me - it didn’t really resist, and I decided that the high-voltage wires were long enough that I could remove the converter. And indeed, I took it out, but only together with the explosive wires, which turned out to be very short, and which I, it turns out, tore out of the “crown” of the flashlight. This was a surprise, because I thought that the explosive wires were soldered to the contacts, but it turns out that soldering is an unaffordable luxury in this case (in Chinese).

Well, I tore it out and tore it out... It is impossible to put the explosive wires back without further disassembly, so I continue to gut the lantern. On the side of the handle you can see a plastic part - a button and switch holder, secured with a locking ring.

Just in case, I twisted the explosive wires, leaving a gap of about 1 cm between their ends - if I decide to check the operation of the explosive converter, it will not burn out due to excess voltage at the output, which would happen if the ends of the wires were separated in different directions. I couldn't stand it and checked the discharge disassembled - there is a discharge.

But how to remove the plastic “crown” from the lantern? I moved it and felt a slight play. At first I thought that the crown was glued, but it turned out that two screws were hidden under a black strip with an inscription glued to the edge of the metal part of the lantern. I peeled off the strip, unscrewed the screws, removed the crown, and after it a plastic “bucket” with an LED fell out onto the table, as well as a very remarkable battery.

At first, looking at the battery, I was very surprised: was it really produced in 2010? But among the bourgeoisie, the first digit is usually the year of manufacture, and it turns out that the battery is from 2013. Since the flashlight arrived charged, then perhaps the battery is not so bad, at least in terms of self-discharge. Its type and capacity from the marking “FEIYU 3.6v 1” are unclear, but it is 100% nickel-cadmium, and I measured approximately 3.8V for three of its series-connected cans. Approximately what capacity can it be? To prevent the battery from dangling, it was pressed with a fabric pad (visible in the photo). There is no insulation, not even one layer of electrical tape.

Also, there is no insulation for the super-duper LED driver - a resistor, and a moving resistor could easily short-circuit the battery. But the fact that the resistor is present, as I understand it, is already good; sometimes they don’t even put a shortcut. I wrapped a little electrical tape around the rezuk.

I understood the reason for the crack in the glass of the lantern: it was a self-tapping screw embedded in the side surface of the transparent “cup”. The reason is the crooked installation of the “piece of glass” - if it is placed straight, the self-tapping screw only slightly touches its end, and does not lead to the appearance of cracks.

I began to put the lantern back together. During disassembly, I completely in vain removed the “slider” from the flashlight mode switch, and the plastic sleeve with the switch and the shocker activation button turned inside the flashlight body.

At the same time, the top of the button popped out, and it took some effort for me to return it to its place, turn the sleeve into the desired position and place the slider on the switch.

I must say that while fiddling with the disassembled flashlight, I was mentally prepared for the fact that the poorly soldered wires would fall off the switch or button, but nevertheless the soldering held up, even though I pulled the wires quite a bit in the process of examining the flashlight.

I stuffed the high-voltage generator back into the lantern housing and ran the wires to the crown. When screwing the back cover, the screws pass through the plastic of the high-voltage generator housing, preventing it from becoming loose. The wires are not connected to the aluminum contact inserts in the crown; the design simply provides a small distance between the explosive wires and the crown contacts. At the same time, it cannot be guaranteed whether there is electrical contact or not - it is a matter of chance. If there is contact now, then with strong vibration, impacts of the flashlight or falls, the wires can “run away” and an extra spark gap will appear. The high-voltage wires of my generator even had conductors slightly recessed into the insulation; therefore, in addition to the visible external discharge, small discharges also occurred inside the plastic crown, as evidenced by the burn marks left by the discharges on the aluminum inserts. To prevent the aluminum inserts from jumping out due to vibration, etc., it is advisable to secure them with glue.

To increase the likelihood of electrical contact between the explosive wires and the plates, I cut off the insulation so that approximately 0.3 mm of the central core of the wire protruded from it, inserted the wires into the holes in the crown, and put the crown in place. This operation had to be repeated, since when installing the crown a couple of times the wires slipped out of their destinations. There is no way to secure the wires better, since they are too short. It was possible to drop some glue, but I didn’t, you never know I’ll have to take it apart (almost certainly).

Well, that seems to be it... I've assembled the flashlight so far, everything works, it shines, it sparkles, but I haven't charged it yet, and the main question is how long does it take to charge this battery of unknown capacity. If anyone has worked with this and knows its capacity, please tell me. I couldn't find any similar designations.

Even before opening the flashlight, I wrote on TinyDeal that the flashlight is faulty, is not charging, and attached a couple of photos in which the flashlight is plugged in, but the “charging” LED is not lit. The store's reaction was interesting. So, after some arguing with TinyDeal, I was offered a $7 refund in the form of TD points. Or, when ordering over $45, TD promised to send another such shocker flashlight for free, which is very strange: this flashlight has had the “sold out” status for a long time. Since I already had my eye on one flashlight at TD (just a flashlight, without a shocker), I agreed to return 7 bucks, especially since I don’t plan to buy anything large there in the near future.

Maybe someday, if I get around to it, I’ll remake this flashlight for a lithium battery with a USB charging controller and a normal LED driver, and maybe with a different LED. True, in order to install a more powerful LED, you will need to grind out the heat sink adapter to replace the original plastic holder. The main question is what lithium-ion battery or battery will fit here, what format? Certainly not 18650, so perhaps installing a more powerful LED does not make sense.

Perhaps the first modification of the flashlight will be to convert it to charge the battery using a voltage of 5V from USB, you just need to install a resistor, maybe even plug a mini-USB connector into the flashlight. The charging time will be significantly reduced, although you will need to control this time yourself, but most importantly, the likelihood of fireworks when charging from the network will decrease. I haven't done it yet.

I'm planning to buy +9 Add to favorites I liked the review +24 +58

After working for about a year, my LED Headlight XM-L T6 headlamp began to turn on every once in a while, or even turn off without a command. Soon it stopped turning on completely.

The first thing I thought was that the battery in the battery compartment was failing.

To illuminate the rear LED HEADLIGHT indicator, a regular red SMD LED is used. Marked on the board as LED. It illuminates a plate of white plastic.

Since the battery compartment is located on the back of the head, this indicator is clearly visible at night.

Obviously it won’t hurt when cycling and walking along road routes.

Through a 100 Ohm resistor, the positive terminal of the red SMD LED is connected to the drain of the FDS9435A MOSFET transistor. Thus, when the flashlight is turned on, voltage is supplied to both the main Cree XM-L T6 XLamp LED and the low-power red SMD LED.

We've sorted out the main details. Now I'll tell you what's broken.

When you pressed the flashlight's power button, you could see that the red SMD LED began to shine, but very dimly. The operation of the LED corresponded to the standard operating modes of the flashlight (maximum brightness, low brightness and strobe). It became clear that the control chip U1 (FM2819) is most likely working.

Since it responds normally to pressing a button, then perhaps the problem lies in the load itself - a powerful white LED. Having unsoldered the wires going to the Cree XM-L T6 LED and connected it to a homemade power supply, I was convinced that it was working.

During measurements, it turned out that in maximum brightness mode, the drain of the FDS9435A transistor is only 1.2V. Naturally, this voltage was not enough to power the powerful Cree XM-L T6 LED, but it was enough for the red SMD LED to make its crystal glow dimly.

It became clear that the FDS9435A transistor, which is used in the circuit as an electronic key, is faulty.

I didn’t choose anything to replace the transistor, but bought an original P-channel PowerTrench MOSFET FDS9435A from Fairchild. Here is his appearance.

As you can see, this transistor has full markings and the distinctive sign of the Fairchild company ( F ), which released this transistor.

Having compared the original transistor with the one installed on the board, the thought crept into my head that a fake or less powerful transistor was installed in the flashlight. Perhaps even marriage. Still, the lantern did not even last a year, and the power element had already “thrown its hooves away.”

The pinout of the FDS9435A transistor is as follows.

As you can see, there is only one transistor inside the SO-8 case. Pins 5, 6, 7, 8 are combined and are the drain pin ( D rain). Pins 1, 2, 3 are also connected together and are the source ( S ource). The 4th pin is the gate ( G ate). It is to this that the signal comes from the control chip FM2819 (U1).

As a replacement for the FDS9435A transistor, you can use APM9435, AO9435, SI9435. These are all analogues.

You can desolder the transistor using either conventional methods or more exotic ones, for example, using Rose alloy. You can also use the brute force method - cut the leads with a knife, dismantle the case, and then unsolder the remaining leads on the board.

After replacing the FDS9435A transistor, the headlamp began to work properly.

This concludes the story about the renovation. But if I weren’t a curious radio mechanic, I would have left everything as it is. It works fine. But some moments haunted me.

Since initially I did not know that the microcircuit marked 819L (24) is FM2819, armed with an oscilloscope, I decided to see what signal the microcircuit supplies to the transistor gate under different operating modes. It's interesting.

When the first mode is turned on, -3.4...3.8V is supplied to the gate of the FDS9435A transistor from the FM2819 chip, which practically corresponds to the voltage on the battery (3.75...3.8V). Naturally, a negative voltage is applied to the gate of the transistor, since it is P-channel.

In this case, the transistor opens completely and the voltage on the Cree XM-L T6 LED reaches 3.4...3.5V.

In the minimum glow mode (1/4 brightness), about 0.97V comes to the FDS9435A transistor from the U1 chip. This is if you take measurements with a regular multimeter without any bells and whistles.

In fact, in this mode, a PWM (pulse width modulation) signal arrives at the transistor. Having connected the oscilloscope probes between the “+” power supply and the gate terminal of the FDS9435A transistor, I saw this picture.

Picture of a PWM signal on the oscilloscope screen (time/division - 0.5; V/division - 0.5). Sweep time is mS (milliseconds).

Since a negative voltage is applied to the gate, the “picture” on the oscilloscope screen is flipped. That is, now the photo in the center of the screen shows not an impulse, but a pause between them!

The pause itself lasts about 2.25 milliseconds (mS) (4.5 divisions of 0.5 mS). At this moment the transistor is closed.

Then the transistor opens for 0.75 mS. At the same time, voltage is supplied to the XM-L T6 LED. The amplitude of each pulse is 3V. And, as we remember, I measured only 0.97V with a multimeter. This is not surprising, since I measured constant voltage with a multimeter.

This is the moment on the oscilloscope screen. The time/division switch was set to 0.1 to better determine the pulse duration. The transistor is open. Don't forget that the shutter is marked with a minus "-". The impulse is reversed.

S = (2.25mS + 0.75mS) / 0.75mS = 3mS / 0.75mS = 4. Where,

S - duty cycle (dimensionless value);

Τ - repetition period (milliseconds, mS). In our case, the period is equal to the sum of switching on (0.75 mS) and pause (2.25 mS);

τ - pulse duration (milliseconds, mS). For us it is 0.75mS.

You can also define duty cycle(D), which in the English-speaking environment is called Duty Cycle (often found in all sorts of datasheets for electronic components). It is usually indicated as a percentage.

D = τ/Τ = 0.75/3 = 0.25 (25%). Thus, in low-brightness mode, the LED is turned on for only a quarter of the period.

When I did the calculations for the first time, my fill factor came out to 75%. But then, when I saw a line in the datasheet on the FM2819 about the 1/4 brightness mode, I realized that I had screwed up somewhere. I simply mixed up the pause and pulse duration, because out of habit I mistook the minus “-” on the shutter for the plus “+”. That's why it turned out the other way around.

In the "STROBE" mode, I was not able to view the PWM signal, since the oscilloscope is analog and quite old. I was unable to synchronize the signal on the screen and get a clear image of the pulses, although its presence was visible.

Typical connection diagram and pinout of the FM2819 microcircuit. Maybe someone will find it useful.

Some issues related to the operation of the LED also haunted me. I had somehow never dealt with LED lights before, but now I wanted to figure it out.

When I looked through the datasheet for the Cree XM-L T6 LED, which is installed in the flashlight, I realized that the value of the current-limiting resistor was too small (0.13 Ohm). Yes, and on the board one slot for a resistor was free.

When I was surfing the Internet in search of information about the FM2819 microcircuit, I saw photos of several printed circuit boards of similar flashlights. Some had four 1 Ohm resistors soldered to them, and some even had an SMD resistor marked “0” (jumper), which, in my opinion, is generally a crime.

An LED is a nonlinear element, and therefore a current-limiting resistor must be connected in series with it.

If you look at the datasheet for the Cree XLamp XM-L series LEDs, you will find that their maximum supply voltage is 3.5V, and the nominal voltage is 2.9V. In this case, the current through the LED can reach 3A. Here is the graph from the datasheet.

The rated current for such LEDs is considered to be a current of 700 mA at a voltage of 2.9V.

Specifically, in my flashlight, the current through the LED was 1.2 A when the voltage across it was 3.4...3.5V, which is clearly too much.

To reduce the forward current through the LED, instead of the previous resistors, I soldered four new ones with a nominal value of 2.4 Ohms (size 1206). I got a total resistance of 0.6 Ohm (power dissipation 0.125W * 4 = 0.5W).

After replacing the resistors, the forward current through the LED was 800 mA at a voltage of 3.15V. This way the LED will operate under a milder thermal regime, and hopefully will last a long time.

Since resistors of size 1206 are designed for a power dissipation of 1/8W (0.125 W), and in maximum brightness mode, about 0.5 W of power is dissipated on four current-limiting resistors, it is desirable to remove excess heat from them.

To do this, I cleaned the green varnish from the copper area next to the resistors and soldered a drop of solder onto it. This technique is often used on printed circuit boards of consumer electronic equipment.

After finalizing the electronic filling of the flashlight, I coated the printed circuit board with PLASTIK-71 varnish (electrical insulating acrylic varnish) to protect it from condensation and moisture.

When calculating the current-limiting resistor, I encountered some subtleties. The voltage at the drain of the MOSFET transistor should be taken as the LED supply voltage. The fact is that on the open channel of the MOSFET transistor, part of the voltage is lost due to the channel resistance (R (ds)on).

The higher the current, the more voltage “settles” along the Source-Drain path of the transistor. For me, at a current of 1.2A it was 0.33V, and at 0.8A - 0.08V. Also, part of the voltage drops on the connecting wires that go from the battery terminals to the board (0.04V). It would seem such a trifle, but in total it adds up to 0.12V. Since under load the voltage on the Li-ion battery drops to 3.67...3.75V, then the drain on the MOSFET is already 3.55...3.63V.

Another 0.5...0.52V is extinguished by a circuit of four parallel resistors. As a result, the LED receives a voltage of around 3-odd volts.

At the time of writing this article, an updated version of the reviewed headlamp appeared on sale. It already has a built-in Li-ion battery charge/discharge control board, and also adds an optical sensor that allows you to turn on the flashlight with a palm gesture.

It all started when I heard about an incredible freebie organized by the site jd.ru, namely the distribution of coupons for $10 from $10.05. And then it began...
This was my first order on this site.
I have long wanted to buy myself a headlamp, but here is such an interesting offer, and the price is less than 100 rubles, how could I resist?!
If anyone is interested in a continuation, please see the cut! Fans of dismemberment - please take care :-)

There are many offers of variable-focus headbands on the site and offline, but, personally, I consider a variable-focus headband to be a waste of money.
In general, the niche of “magicians” is extremely limited, although sometimes they can be useful.
I have both on my farm, but more on that below.
In general, I was looking for a single-hop headband with a reflector, and I found it.
The flashlight arrived in a month, delivered in a cardboard box.

Inside is the flashlight itself and the charger:

Modes.

The flashlight has three operating modes; modes are switched using a button on the end of the flashlight itself. The button is tactile, i.e. with a click without fixation, for example, like on a mouse.
Modes switch cyclically: strong -> medium -> strobe -> off.
The last mode is useless, it would be better if they made a weak mode.
The modes are duplicated by illuminating the white insert on the battery pack with a red LED.

Here I measured the currents:
it turned out something like this:
-Strong mode - 1600 mA.
-Medium mode - 550 mA.
Using a flashlight, we calculate the luminous flux:
-Strong mode - 600 lumens
-Medium mode - 220 lumens.

Characteristics.

Let's see what the Chinese promise us:
-Diode XM-L bin T6 - not bad.
-A light flux of 1500 lumens is a lie, hops cannot produce more than a thousand; by the way, the website honestly states a light flux of 600 lumens, which is more or less true.
-Visibility is indicated at 100m, on the website it is 150 - I believe it.
- Operating time - 20 hours - a lie, maximum 14 on low mode and powerful batteries, in reality - less.
-Moisture protection is a lie, but you can finish it.
-Light - cool white 6500K.
-Powered by one or two 18650 batteries in a separate box, the kit includes charging for a normal outlet.
-The lantern has three elastic straps with adjustment (so-called thongs).
-Smooth (SMO) aluminum reflector.
-Aluminium case.

Charger.

Charging is suspiciously easy.
Characteristics:

The charging socket is located on the battery block and is closed with a rubber plug.
As test subjects, I used cheap cans labeled as 4000 mAh, with a real capacity of about 1400.
It takes a very long time to charge, it turns off at 4.23 V.

Giblets and charging process

Charging:

Charging complete:

Head.

The head is made of aluminum alloy and has fins for cooling the flashlight; it is attached to the headband using one Phillips screw.

The hole for the cable should be sealed with silicone sealant...
Unscrew the bezel and take out the glass.
O-ring present:

The edges of the glass are not processed; between the bezel and the glass there is a green rubber seal with a light accumulator. It glows quite well, at the level of a similar rubber band of the Convoy flashlight.

The reflector is smooth, aluminum.

Reflector.

Under the reflector is a star with a diode and a guide for the reflector.

There is no hole under the diode, nor is there any thermal paste.
On the other side there is a button and wires.
There is nothing between the pill and the body. Pressing is carried out due to the thread of the bezel.
The processing of the body is lame.
The elastic band of the button is light blue, without a light accumulator.

As a modification, I applied thermal paste under the diode and in the places where the pill fits. It gets hot, which means it removes heat well.

Battery pack and brains.

The battery pack is designed to accommodate two 18650 batteries.
The batteries are connected in parallel.
The circuit allows the use of one battery installed in any slot.
Protected batteries do not fit, I checked it personally.
ATTENTION!
If you insert two batteries, they must be of the same brand, capacity and both fully charged, in order to avoid bad consequences.

The battery pack is equipped with a rubber cover, which is secured with a steel ring. It closes tightly, no complaints. The cover is quite thin, so you have a good chance of feeling the heat from the discharge of the battery on the back of your head.
We disassemble the block; to do this, you need to unscrew four screws.
There is a driver on the back side.

As you can see, the charger is connected directly to the batteries.
Who is interested in microcircuit markings:
Left: 2812.
Right: 9435 / PDA00096-1S.
In the center there is a red SMD LED that duplicates the operating modes of the flashlight.
The wires going to the head are not particularly thick.
I suspect the flashlight parameters can be adjusted, but I couldn’t find a manual for the circuit.
The white insert on the outside of the block is held in place by pressing it with the battery pack; for sealing, it would be a good idea to place it on the sealant.

Feel.

It fits well on the head. It reacts adequately to jumping; in order to change the angle of the head, a certain effort must be made. The controls are not very convenient; it would be better if the button was placed somewhere on the side or behind.

Light and comparison with other lanterns.

As opponents I chose four different flashlights on one 18650 element, two of which with zoom.
All flashlights in the test were powered by freshly charged Samsung ICR18650-30B batteries; one such battery was used in the headlamp.

In order:

Convoy S8. XM-L2-T6-3B (neutral shade, when I ordered it I thought it would be colder), 2.8 A, approximately 1000 lumens, “crumpled” OP reflector. Used as a bag EDC.
UltraFire WF-502B. MC-E bin K (neutral shade), approximately 700 lumens, “creased” OP reflector. The diode consists of four crystals. One of my first normal flashlights, bought many years ago.
A Chinese lantern with a zoom taken, for example, from a friend. Cold diode XM-L T6, 1.6 A, approximately 600 lumens. This flashlight will allow you to compare flashlights of different optical designs, on the same diode with the same brightness.
Another Chinese with a zoom, Diode - neutral CREE XR-E bin R2, 1 A, about 260 lumens, purchased a long time ago, used as a working flashlight for electrical work and illumination of various large containers. The flashlight is also used for photographing small objects as additional illumination, and in this it is very good due to its even filling with neutral light.

Modification of the lantern for a wide flood light.
The purpose of this modification is to obtain a flashlight with a wide soft light for use at short distances.
Everything is extremely simple, unscrew the bezel, take out the glass, carefully trace the glass on the laminator film, cut it out and paste it in front of the glass with the smooth side facing the glass, the frosted side facing out.
It all holds very tightly, since the bezel reliably fixes the film. It is also very easy to remove.

Distance from the flashlight bezel to the wall: 1 meter exactly.
The distance to the lens is approximately 2.5 meters.
The wall has a slightly bluish tint.
Camera parameters:
Canon 600D + EF-S 18-55mm IS II, wide angle, open aperture, full manual mode with the following parameters:

Headband:

In reality, the color is more bluish than purple. A bright, but rather narrow hot spot, very wide and uniform side illumination. There would also be an OP reflector here...

Modified forehead:

Convoy:

Wide, blurry hotspot with a developed corona, medium-width side flare.

Ultrafire:

Due to the fact that the diode has four crystals, an artifact in the form of a dark spot is observed in the center, visible on the right beamshot.

Zoom on XM-L T6:

The shade is more purple. the beam is not particularly wide. Illumination is uniform.

Zoom on XR-E:

The closest light to white. The size of the beam is not very different from the previous one.

One on one. Be careful, there is a lot of traffic.

Maximum:

On medium:

At minimum:

Conclusions.

In general, I'm happy with the purchase. This flashlight requires some work, but it is not complicated and is accessible to any user. All that is required is to spread thermal paste in the right places and seal a couple of elements with sealant.
In terms of light: the light is not bad, bright, wide, but I don’t like a hotspot that is too bright and narrow.

As an improvement, I’ll try to find and order a “crumpled” reflector. As a temporary measure, I’ll try to cut a diffuser out of film for the laminator, which will allow me to achieve a certain versatility: if I need a low-level flood light, I’ll attach the film, if I need range, I’ll remove it.
I recommend purchasing this flashlight. For this money- you can't find a better forehead protector.

Today we will talk about how to fix an LED Chinese flashlight yourself. We will also consider instructions for repairing LED lights with your own hands with visual photos and videos

As you can see, the scheme is simple. Main elements: current-limiting capacitor, rectifier diode bridge with four diodes, battery, switch, super-bright LEDs, LED to indicate flashlight battery charging.

Well, now, in order, about the purpose of all the elements in the flashlight.

Current limiting capacitor. It is designed to limit the battery charging current. Its capacity for each type of flashlight may be different. A non-polar mica capacitor is used. The operating voltage must be at least 250 volts. In the circuit it must be bypassed, as shown, with a resistor. It serves to discharge the capacitor after you remove the flashlight from the charging outlet. Otherwise, you may get an electric shock if you accidentally touch the 220 volt power terminals of the flashlight. The resistance of this resistor must be at least 500 kOhm.

The rectifier bridge is assembled on silicon diodes with a reverse voltage of at least 300 volts.

To indicate the charging of the flashlight battery, a simple red or green LED is used. It is connected in parallel to one of the diodes of the rectifier bridge. True, in the diagram I forgot to indicate the resistor connected in series with this LED.

It makes no sense to talk about the other elements; everything should be clear anyway.

I would like to draw your attention to the main points of repairing an LED flashlight. Let's look at the main faults and how to fix them.

1. The flashlight stopped shining. There aren't many options here. The reason may be the failure of super-bright LEDs. This can happen, for example, in the following case. You put the flashlight on charge and accidentally turned on the switch. In this case, a sharp jump in current will occur and one or more diodes of the rectifier bridge may be broken. And behind them, the capacitor may not be able to withstand it and will short out. The voltage on the battery will increase sharply and the LEDs will fail. So, under no circumstances turn on the flashlight while charging unless you want to throw it away.

2. The flashlight does not turn on. Well, here you need to check the switch.

3. The flashlight discharges very quickly. If your flashlight is “experienced”, then most likely the battery has reached its service life. If you actively use the flashlight, then after one year of use the battery will no longer last.

Problem 1: The LED flashlight does not turn on or flickers when working

As a rule, this is the cause of poor contact. The easiest way to treat it is to tighten all the threads tightly.
If the flashlight doesn't work at all, start by checking the battery. It may be discharged or damaged.

Unscrew the back cover of the flashlight and use a screwdriver to connect the housing to the negative terminal of the battery. If the flashlight lights up, then the problem is in the module with the button.

90% of the buttons of all LED lights are made according to the same scheme:
The button body is made of aluminum with a thread, a rubber cap is inserted there, then the button module itself and a pressure ring for contact with the body.

The problem is most often solved by a loose clamping ring.
To fix this problem, just find round pliers with thin tips or thin scissors that need to be inserted into the holes, as in the photo, and turned clockwise.

If the ring moves, the problem is fixed. If the ring stays in place, then the problem lies in the contact of the button module with the body. Unscrew the clamping ring counterclockwise and pull the button module out.
Poor contact often occurs due to oxidation of the aluminum surface of the ring or border on the printed circuit board (indicated by arrows)

Simply wipe these surfaces with alcohol and functionality will be restored.

Button modules are different. Some have contact through the printed circuit board, others have contact through the side petals to the flashlight body.
Just bend this petal to the side so that the contact is tighter.
Alternatively, you can make a solder from tin so that the surface is thicker and the contact is pressed better.
All LED lights are basically the same

The plus goes through the positive contact of the battery to the center of the LED module.
The negative goes through the body and is closed with a button.

It would be a good idea to check the tightness of the LED module inside the housing. This is also a common problem with LED lights.

Using round nose pliers or pliers, rotate the module clockwise until it stops. Be careful, it is easy to damage the LED at this point.
These actions should be quite enough to restore the functionality of the LED flashlight.

It’s worse when the flashlight works and the modes are switched, but the beam is very dim, or the flashlight doesn’t work at all and there’s a burning smell inside.

Problem 2. The flashlight works fine, but is dim or does not work at all and there is a burning smell inside

Most likely the driver has failed.
The driver is an electronic circuit on transistors that controls the flashlight modes and is also responsible for a constant voltage level, regardless of battery discharge.

You need to unsolder the burnt driver and solder in a new driver, or connect the LED directly to the battery. In this case, you lose all modes and are left only with the maximum one.

Sometimes (much less often) the LED fails.
You can check this very simply. Apply a voltage of 4.2 V/ to the contact pads of the LED. The main thing is not to confuse the polarity. If the LED lights up brightly, then the driver has failed, if vice versa, then you need to order a new LED.

Unscrew the module with the LED from the housing.
Modules vary, but as a rule, they are made of copper or brass and

The weakest point of such flashlights is the button. Its contacts oxidize, as a result of which the flashlight begins to shine dimly, and then may stop turning on altogether.
The first sign is that a flashlight with a normal battery shines dimly, but if you click the button several times, the brightness increases.

The easiest way to make such a lantern shine is to do the following:

1. Take a thin stranded wire and cut off one strand.
2. We wind the wires onto the spring.
3. We bend the wire so that the battery does not break it. The wire should protrude slightly
above the twisting part of the flashlight.
4. Twist tightly. We break off (tear off) the excess wire.
As a result, the wire provides good contact with the negative part of the battery and the flashlight
will shine with proper brightness. Of course, the button is no longer available for such repairs, so
Turning on and off the flashlight is done by turning the head part.
My Chinese guy worked like this for a couple of months. If you need to change the battery, the back of the flashlight
should not be touched. We turn our heads away.

RESTORING THE OPERATION OF THE BUTTON.

Today I decided to bring the button back to life. The button is located in a plastic case, which
It's just pressed into the back of the light. In principle, it can be pushed back, but I did it a little differently:

1. Use a 2 mm drill to make a couple of holes to a depth of 2-3 mm.
2. Now you can use tweezers to unscrew the housing with the button.
3. Remove the button.
4. The button is assembled without glue or latches, so it can be easily disassembled with a stationery knife.
The photo shows that the moving contact has oxidized (a round thing in the center that looks like a button).
You can clean it with an eraser or fine sandpaper and put the button back together, but I decided to additionally tin both this part and the fixed contacts.

1. Clean with fine sandpaper.
2. Apply a thin layer to the areas marked in red. We wipe off the flux with alcohol,
assembling the button.
3. To increase reliability, I soldered a spring to the bottom contact of the button.
4. Putting everything back together.
After repair, the button works perfectly. Of course, tin also oxidizes, but since tin is a fairly soft metal, I hope that the oxide film will be
easy to break down. It’s not for nothing that the central contact on light bulbs is made of tin.

IMPROVING FOCUS.

My Chinese friend had a very vague idea of what a “hotspot” was, so I decided to enlighten him.
Unscrew the head part.

1. There is a small hole in the board (arrow). Use an awl to twist out the filling.
At the same time, lightly press your finger on the glass from the outside. This makes it easier to unscrew.
2. Remove the reflector.
3. Take ordinary office paper and punch 6-8 holes with an office hole punch.
The diameter of the holes in the hole punch matches perfectly with the diameter of the LED.
Cut out 6-8 paper washers.
4. Place the washers on the LED and press it with the reflector.
Here you will have to experiment with the number of washers. I improved the focusing of a couple of flashlights in this way; the number of washers was in the range of 4-6. The current patient required 6 of them.

INCREASE THE BRIGHTNESS (for those who know a little about electronics).

The Chinese save on everything. A couple of extra details will increase the cost, so they don’t install it.

The main part of the diagram (marked in green) may be different. On one or two transistors or on a specialized microcircuit (I have a circuit of two parts:
inductor and a 3-leg IC similar to a transistor). But they save on the part marked in red. I added a capacitor and a pair of 1n4148 diodes in parallel (I didn't have any shots). The brightness of the LED increased by 10-15 percent.

1. This is what the LED looks like in similar Chinese ones. From the side you can see that there are thick and thin legs inside. The thin leg is a plus. You need to be guided by this sign, because the colors of the wires can be completely unpredictable.
2. This is what the board looks like with the LED soldered to it (on the back side). Green color indicates foil. The wires coming from the driver are soldered to the legs of the LED.
3. Using a sharp knife or a triangular file, cut the foil on the positive side of the LED.
We sand the entire board to remove the varnish.
4. Solder the diodes and capacitor. I took the diodes from a broken computer power supply, and soldered the tantalum capacitor from some burnt-out hard drive.
The positive wire now needs to be soldered to the pad with the diodes.

As a result, the flashlight produces (by eye) 10-12 lumens (see photo with hotspots),
judging by the Phoenix, which produces 9 lumens in minimum mode.