Hello beginner renovators. Today I’ll tell you and show you how to fix a mouse without any problems, saving on the family budget and gaining experience that will be useful to any man in everyday life in the future.

They brought me a mouse for repair, with the complaint that “it only works when I move the cord.” Malfunctions are common, especially considering the fact that the wire is tight, which means it is vulnerable in such cases.

DISASSEMBLY

I had to sweat a little until I figured out how it opens. It turned out that underneath the sticker there are screws that need to be unscrewed. You also need to release the latch in the window between the screws.

Disassembling the mouse

INSPECTION

The inspection revealed no oddities, burns, ring cracks or swollen electrolytic capacitors. Overall the board looked decent.

REPAIR

I immediately began repairing the faulty wire at the bend. To do this, I marked the color markings by scratching the capital letters of the colors of the wires on the board, so that later I wouldn’t bite my elbows trying to remember where which wires were soldered to each other. 🙂

Board overview and wire identification

Soldered them out. I cut the safety seal in order to return it to its place later. It turned out to be glued, so I had to carefully tinker with it to remove the wire.
In order to show you how a wire inside the insulation usually breaks, I bit off the damaged area with a reserve and cleaned it. The wire actually turned out to be broken, in two wires.

This is what damaged wires look like

Next, I stripped the wire, tinned it and glued the seal in place using rubber glue, Moment.” The seal also prevents the wire from jumping out of the mouse during operation. I wrapped it with electrical tape to make the gluing better.

Electrical tape on the seal during drying

Checking ESR capacitors with a meter

The capacitors turned out to be fine. I usually use a table to check ESR, although by and large, it is better to install new ones right away, for a guarantee. In order to conveniently solder radio components back, I often use an awl to free the holes for the legs of the radio components from tin.

The encoder, like variable resistors, is subject to wear. To do this, after disassembling it, I washed it with a rag moistened with alcohol, lubricated it with Lithol and carefully assembled it in the reverse order, using narrow-nose pliers during assembly.

Encoder and mouse wheels disassembled

Cleaning the encoder

Encoder lubrication

Encoder assembly

At this time, the glue had dried, so I boldly soldered the wire to the board.

We make sure to clean off any remaining rosin after soldering, under which snot often lurks.”

Cleaning rosin

Those. tin disordered by rosin, sometimes imperceptibly and meanly closing contacts. We clean off the remaining rosin with a brush, preferably moistened with alcohol, since rosin can lead to copper corrosion.

Remove any remaining rosin using alcohol and a brush.

ATTENTION. First I tested the mouse on the computer, which worked, and then I just assembled it. You know, I don’t really want to disassemble the mouse again after finding out that the mouse suddenly doesn’t work. 🙂

ATTENTION! PROTECT YOUR EYES FROM THE LASER BUILT INTO THE MOUSE, WHICH CAN DAMAGE THE RETINA!

Installed and glued seal

Computer mouse is an electronic manipulator designed to remote control operation of computer programs by activating a cursor that moves across the monitor screen following the movement of the mouse across the surface. For control, at least two keys and a wheel are installed on the mouse body, allowing you to scroll pages in the vertical direction.

Depending on the method of connecting to a computer, mice can be wired (connected using a flexible cable with a PS/2 or USB connector) and wireless.

The photo shows a wireless mouse. As you can see, it does not have a wire to connect to the computer. In wireless mice, information is exchanged using radio frequency. IN USB port computer, laptop or tablet, a transceiver is inserted, providing two-way communication between the mouse and the device via the air.

Wireless mice have the following disadvantages: - they are more expensive, heavier and require additional attention, since it is necessary to periodically replace dead batteries or charge the batteries.

Optical computer mice are very reliable and can last for many years. But over time they break, and you have to replace the mouse or repair it yourself, since repairing it in a workshop will cost more than the cost of a new one.

Wired mice fail, in the vast majority of cases, due to chafing of the wire at the point where it exits the case, and wireless mice due to the discharge of the battery, accumulator or failure of contact between its terminals or contacts in the container due to their oxidation. Over time, any mouse fails due to wear and tear on the buttons, usually the left one, which is the most frequently used. To repair the mouse, you need to disassemble it.

How to disassemble a computer mouse

In order to disassemble the mouse for repair, you need to unscrew the mounting screws from its bottom side. Usually there is one, but there may be several. In this mouse model, the halves of the body are fastened with one screw.

If the screws are not visually visible, then most likely they are covered with a label or hidden under the thrust bearings. You need to lightly press the label over the entire area. If, in any place, the label bends in the shape of a circle, then most likely there is a screw hidden there. This mouse has a screw hidden under a label that had to be partially peeled off.

In the model, for example, TECH X-701, the fastening is made using two screws, one of which is also hidden under the label. When I tried to peel off the label, it began to tear, so I had to unscrew the screw and make a hole in the label. The place where the label was pierced with a screwdriver in the photo below is indicated by a blue circle.

If the screws could not be found under the labels, then they are definitely sealed with thrust bearings. To gain access, you need to carefully remove the thrust bearings with a knife. Upon completion of the mouse repair, they will need to be glued in place, since without the pads it will slide worse on the mousepad.

After unscrewing the screws, you need to move the halves of the mouse body from the side of the unscrewed screw in different directions and remove top part, on which the buttons are located.

The mouse's printed circuit board is usually not fixed with screws and is installed with holes on plastic rods protruding from the case. But there are computer mice that printed circuit board screwed with small screws to the body. If, when you try to remove the board, it does not give in, you need to find and unscrew all the screws that secure it. An example of this is the TECH X-701 computer mouse, which is secured to the case with a screw that simultaneously secures the additional printed circuit board of the side buttons.

To remove the board, you need to pry it from below, while simultaneously removing the wheel axis from the bearing retainers of the housing.

When disassembling the mouse, remember how the parts are located relative to each other. Pay special attention to the wheel ratchet spring (if there is one). It is similar to a clothespin spring, only small in size and can easily get lost. If you don’t like how the ratchet works when rotating the wheel, you can slightly bend the tip of the spring that comes into contact with the teeth of the wheel. The pressure will decrease and the wheel will rotate more smoothly.

When disassembling and repairing the mouse, you need to be careful not to let your hands touch the surfaces of the optical prism and other optical elements. If you accidentally touch it and traces of sweat and grease remain on the surface, you must remove them with a cloth soaked in a special composition for wiping optical parts. Under no circumstances should any solvents be used for cleaning. If you don’t have a special napkin at hand, simply wipe off any traces of dirt with a soft, clean cloth.

Wireless mouse repair

The main reason for the complete inoperability of wireless mice is dead batteries (accumulators) or poor contact of their terminals with electrical diagram mice. Since the lasers of many mouse models operate in the light range, to determine the condition of the batteries, just turn on the mouse and look at it from below. If a red glow is emitted, the batteries are good. Otherwise, repairs must begin with checking the batteries and the quality of their contact with the electrical circuit of the mouse.

In order to get to the batteries, you need, for example, like in this mouse, to press the “Open” button, after which the battery compartment cover will release and it will open.

If the mouse's laser operates in an invisible zone, then you can only check the condition of the power supply by replacing or measuring the voltage at the battery terminals.

In a mouse that has been in use for a long time, the contacts on both the battery terminals and the contacts in the mouse may oxidize. In this case, they need to be inspected and, if oxides are found, remove them with a rag soaked in alcohol or simply wipe thoroughly until shiny. It is not advisable to remove oxide from the mouse contacts with sandpaper, since the thin protective galvanic coating will be removed from them.

Like a wired mouse
repair a frayed wire

If, when working with the mouse, the cursor begins to move spontaneously, jump to any place on the monitor screen, or freeze, then we can say with greater certainty that the integrity of the wire at the point where it exits the housing has been compromised. It’s easy to check, you need to press the wire against the body and if the functionality is temporarily restored, then it’s definitely a problem with the wire.

If, when inspecting the wires at the point where they exit the housing computer mouse physical damage is detected, then the reason for the inoperability is obvious. Here is an example of such damage. The photo shows that it is double outer shell the wires are damaged, and some of the tinsel-looking conductors are frayed.

If you have soldering skills with a soldering iron, it is not difficult to repair a computer mouse with a frayed wire, doubling its service life. The repair consists of removing the damaged section of the wire and sealing the newly prepared ends of the surviving part of the conductors into the printed circuit board.

How to repair a frayed mouse wire by soldering

The wire connecting the computer mouse to the connector comes in two types - made of ordinary thin stranded copper wire and tinsel-type wire. Tinsel type wire is more elastic, therefore it has high bending resistance and lasts longer.

Entering the mouse body, the wire runs along and connects to printed circuit board. There are two types of connections: a detachable connection or a press-fit connection into a block that is soldered into the board. The photo shows a block soldered from a printed circuit board with conductors pressed into it.

Regardless of the method of connecting the wires to the mouse’s printed circuit board, in order to know how to solder during repairs, you need to photograph or sketch what color wire is connected to which contact. Then unsolder the connector from the board (it’s better not to disconnect it, it’s easier to unsolder) or the block. There is no international standard for the color scheme of mouse wires, and each manufacturer chooses the wire color at its own discretion. I had to repair many computer mice and everywhere the wires from the same connector pins came in different colors. Obviously, this is due to the fact that the mouse is considered a consumable item, and manufacturers do not provide for repairs after the end of the warranty period.

After desoldering the old wires from the mouse circuit board, you need to clear the solder holes to seal the new wires. This job can be easily done with a toothpick or a sharpened match. It is enough to heat the solder at the location of the hole on the side of the printed conductors of the board and insert the tip of a toothpick into it, remove the soldering iron, and when the solder hardens, remove the toothpick. The hole will be free for installing a conductor into it.

To prepare the wires for installation, it is necessary to cut off a 15-20 mm long piece of wire coming out of the mouse body that has become unusable. Remove the insulation from the wires and tin the ends of the conductors with solder. You need to tin the wires by placing them on a wooden stand, while rotating them in one direction so that the tinned ends of the wires are round in shape. Otherwise, it will be impossible to insert them into the holes on the printed circuit board.

Insert wires into the printed circuit board of the mouse in accordance with the sketched color scheme and solder them with a soldering iron.

Wires of the tinsel type cannot be tinned using ordinary rosin flux, since the tinsel ribbon conductors are covered with a layer of insulating varnish. Acid flux cannot be used as it will saturate the inner strand of the tinsel wire and eventually destroy the conductors. The best flux in this case is an aspirin tablet.

All that remains is to insert the tinned ends of the wires into the holes of the printed circuit board and solder them with solder.

Sometimes there are mice in which the printed circuit board is double-sided with holes for wires of very small diameter, and it is very difficult to free them from solder. In this case, you can simply solder the conductors to the contact pads. Since physical stress is not applied to the wires when the mouse is operating, the connection is quite reliable.

Now you can install the printed circuit board into the base of the case and secure it with a screw, lay the wire and close it with the top cover. When installing a cover with buttons, you need to make sure that the wire does not get under the pushers of the buttons, between the mating protrusions of the housing and does not touch other moving parts. Before assembling the mouse, it is imperative to remove dust and hairs, which over a long period of use quite a lot gets stuffed through the gap between the wheel and the body. The repair is completed and the computer mouse is ready for use again.

How to repair a frayed mouse wire by twisting it

It’s safer than soldering to repair a wire, but not everyone knows how to solder, and even if they do, they don’t always have a soldering iron at hand. You can successfully restore the operation of the mouse without a soldering iron by twisting the wires. The mouse is disassembled and a section of the frayed wire is cut out.

The conductors are carefully removed from the cut wire sheath. The wire sheath is not cut, it will still serve.

The length of the conductors is adjusted so that when twisting, the twisting points are shifted relative to each other by 8 mm and the ends of the conductors are stripped of insulation to a length of 5-8 mm.

The ends of conductors of the same color are twisted tightly together.

The resulting twists are bent along the conductors, and the conductors are tucked into one of the previously cut wire sheaths. When refueling, you need to pay attention so that the twists do not touch each other.

A couple of turns of insulation will prevent the twists from accidentally touching the parts on the mouse board and will give the connection sufficient mechanical strength.

All that remains is to insert the wire connector into the mating part on the mouse’s printed circuit board and lay the wire in the case.

Close the top cover, tighten the screws and you can start working on the computer. The wire repaired in this way will last another period. Sometimes system unit They are installed far from the workplace, and the mouse wire is not long enough to work without tension. Using the technologies proposed above, you can successfully extend the wire to the required length by taking the wire from an old mouse. Since there is no single color standard for wires, you must first determine by dialing which color wire is connected to which number in the connector.

To increase the service life of the mouse, it is necessary to ensure that the wire at the point where it exits the mouse body does not bend too much when manipulating it.

If the mouse wheel becomes difficult to rotate

Sometimes when you rotate the mouse wheel, the page scrolls jerkily or does not move to one side. One of the reasons is the ingress of dust and hairs between the photo sensor and the photodetector of the wheel optocoupler. Dirt enters the mouse body through the gap between its body and the wheel and sticks to the wheel axles, as they are coated with lubricant to improve gliding.

After removing the dust and hairs, the functionality of the mouse wheel was restored.

Mouse button repair

If when you press the left or right mouse button the reaction does not always occur or does not occur at all, then there may be two reasons. The button is worn out at the point of contact with the microswitch pusher or its failure. In order to understand the reason, it is enough to disassemble the mouse and inspect the place of the button in contact with the pusher. If there is a millimeter deepening, then perhaps this is the reason.

When you press your finger on the pusher of a working button, you should hear a clear and loud click. If the sound is dull, then it may be the switch. To check, you need to connect the mouse with the top half removed to a working computer and press the microswitch pushers with your finger. If it works normally, then it will be enough to eliminate the wear on the button in any available way, for example, by melting the plastic or a drop of epoxy resin. If the problem is with the microswitch, you will have to replace it.

The vast majority of mice use microswitches of standard sizes. The microswitch is designed and operates as follows. Three brass plates of complex configuration are pressed into the plastic case, which end with pins for sealing into a printed circuit board. The left (pictured) plate is the midpoint of the switch. An additional thin brass plate with a U-shaped hole is fixed on it in a spacer.

The left side of the thin brass plate engages the protrusion on the left side of the left contact plate, and the right, curved arc, engages the right protrusion of the left contact plate. The thin flat plate is installed in such a way that its right end always pushes up, and it contacts the right thick plate, which has an L-shape.

When you press the button, the button pusher transmits force to a thin plate, it moves down, moves away from the upper contact and comes into contact with the lower one, the terminal of which is located in the middle of the button. After the pressure ceases, the thin plate returns to its upper original position and again connects the outer contacts of the microswitch. Thus, when the button is not pressed, the outer contacts coming out from the bottom of the button are connected to each other, and when pressed, the left and middle ones are connected to each other.

Over time, the metal accumulates fatigue, the arc-shaped spring is deformed and partially loses its springing properties. This is where the button stops working. You can try to repair the microswitch by disassembling it, removing the arcuate spring and straightening it a little. But having a supply of old mice, I didn’t have to resort to such repairs. Although the buttons on keyboards were repaired many times at the dawn of computers, each button in them worked on the same principle as microswitches in mice.

Therefore, if you have an old ball-type one lying around, it would be more advisable to remove the microswitch from it to replace the faulty one. It is best to solder the one that is installed under the wheel. It is rarely used and is generally in good working order.

If there is no wheel, then take the microswitch of the right button. Before unsoldering the microswitch, pay attention to how it is installed. In microswitches, the pins are located symmetrically and it is easy to make mistakes during installation. If there is no old mouse, then it is permissible to swap the microswitches in the mouse being repaired, from under the left button to the one installed under the wheel. And if the situation is completely hopeless, then you will have to start repairing the microswitch.

The first question I want to ask is: “Why repair a mouse, because nowadays it’s easy to buy a new one rather than waste time repairing an old one?” At the same time, a number of PC users will not agree with this; there are very convenient items that you get used to, and there are other reasons why you don’t want to part with the item. It is proposed to give the mouse a second life.

The mouse is one of the most frequently used peripheral devices, and as a result, various problems occur. The main problems in the operation of a mouse for a computer (laptop): operating system does not detect the device; Buttons don't work well; The scroll wheel moves jerkily.

A significant number of problems are associated with contaminants penetrating the device body and mechanical wear.

First step. Disassembling a computer mouse.

Unscrew the screw located at the bottom of the housing. In the design under consideration, the screw is located under the silicone plate, in some versions - under paper stickers. (Fig. 1)

Use the tip of a screwdriver to remove the edge of the plate and peel it off, moving it to the side. In the case of the paper version, we pierce it. (Fig.2)

Carefully remove the upper part of the case from the grooves.

In Fig. The 3 arrows indicate individual elements that are most subject to wear and tear, causing the mouse to perform poorly. Basically, the USB cable at the entrance to the case and the microswitches fail.

Second step. Troubleshooting computer mouse problems.

• Troubleshooting when the scroll wheel moves jerkily. That is, when you move the mouse, the cursor stands still, moves intermittently, and in order for it to move you need to move the mouse several times.

The main reason for this problem is that the USB cable at the entrance to the mouse body is broken due to repeated bending of the wire. In order to troubleshoot
Use a knife or scissors to cut off the damaged section of the USB cable, for example, as indicated by the dotted line in Fig. 4.

For ease of operation, the board is removed from the case, for which it is necessary to bend the two latches that secure it. Then the top insulation of the cable is removed and the ends of the wires are stripped. If you have a soldering iron, we tin the ends of the wires. (Fig 5)

Next, by twisting, we connect the wires of the ends of the USB cable together in pairs in accordance with the color, and if you have a soldering iron, you can solder them. All joints must be covered with insulating material, and then laid in the form of a large twist in one line. (Figure 6)

For insulation, we use, for example, heat shrink, which is pre-attached to the ends of the cores; it turns out more neatly, but not essential, since the aesthetics will be covered by the housing. (Fig. 7)

If you have soldering experience, you also need to clean the damaged section of the USB cable, then it is tinned and soldered on the side of the tracks under the connector. When soldering, it is necessary to observe the sequence of colors of the cores. (Fig. 8)

• Troubleshooting poor button operation, i.e. To perform any function, you need to click the left mouse button several times, or a double click occurs with one click. The reason is the microswitch, which is pressed by the left key.

In this case, you can’t do without a soldering iron. You need to unsolder the microswitches of the left mouse button and the scroll wheel and swap them in places. The “wheel” functionality is used mainly only for scrolling pages, and extremely rarely as an additional button. Therefore, this microswitch can be installed instead of a worn one.

The microswitch is not difficult to solder, despite the fact that it has three terminals.

Using the end of the soldering iron rod (tip), we simultaneously touch the middle and any of the outer terminals, while trying to lift the edge with our finger, but not applying strong pressure. (Fig. 9)

Then the opposite side of the microswitch is unsoldered, the two terminals are similarly raised and the tip is heated. (Fig. 10)

If an attempt to remove the microswitch from the board is unsuccessful, the desoldering procedure is repeated, i.e. First one side is soldered, then the other. When removing both microswitches, we swap them and solder them.

Situations often arise when some of the solder remains in the hole where the contact of the radio component is inserted. (Fig. 11)

If necessary, you should do the following to resolve this issue. A regular needle or a needle from a disposable syringe is used, which is inserted into the hole from the side of the radio components, and from the side of the tracks this hole must be heated with a soldering iron. As the solder warms up, it will allow the needle to enter the hole, which will push it out.

Reminder. Recovery efficient work The mouse needs to be cleaned from dust from the optical system, scroll wheel and of course the body.

Finally, we reassemble the repaired mouse in the reverse order and enjoy its performance. Good luck to all!

If computer mouse breaks down, many users do not know how to continue living. The session ends and the search for a new device or recovery begins performance broken thing. If you have basic knowledge of electrical engineering and the ability to work with a soldering iron, you can very quickly repair a wireless mouse. Let's consider a step-by-step method for determining the causes of a device malfunction and restoring its resource.

Sources of failure

In most cases, the cause of the malfunction will be non-critical, because modern laser mice are being manufactured made from reliable electronic components.

A loss functionality may occur due to:

• damage to the computer's USB connector;
• poor quality contacts in the power and control parts of the board;
• failure of an electronic element;
• microswitch failures.

Repair algorithm

Before starting work, you need to remove the wireless module from the computer, set the mouse switch to the “off” position and remove the battery. It would be a good idea to check the battery right away. If everything is in order with it, then we proceed to repair the mouse.

To determine performance USB computer just connect a flash drive or keyboard to it. If a synchronization signal appears on the monitor screen, it means the port is in working condition. To check the status of a wireless unit with a USB connector, you need to connect similar probes of the tester, which is in diode testing mode, to the positive and negative inputs of the plug. If the multimeter displays numbers from 500 - 700 Ohms, then the module is working. Of course, this method only indirectly determines the condition of the device and does not guarantee one hundred percent confirmation of its serviceability.

In most cases, the activities listed should help you repair mouse . In the rest - the breakdown will be hidden in microcontroller.

Reading time: 3 min.

A computer mouse is a key mechanism for comfortable work with a computer. It can be used to control PC menu functions. Since the mouse is used actively, it also breaks often and unexpectedly. Its device does not have a complex design. The mouse can be completely disassembled and repaired with your own hands, having a minimum set of tools and knowledge. To find out how to disassemble a mouse without bolts without consequences, you should study the features of its fastenings.

Features of fastenings

The mouse consists of two parts: a body, a wheel and internal parts. The top housing is divided into two main buttons. The upper and lower parts are bolted together. Usually manufacturers hide them under bearings or stickers. Most mice have four mounting screws located under the feet on the bottom of the case. These feet allow you to glide easily across the rug. They peel off and stick back.

Often you come across devices with one bolt on one side of the case. The second side is fixed with latches. If the screws are not visible at all, then there are latches around the entire perimeter. To disassemble the mouse, you need to press lightly on them.

Inside there is a printed circuit board, most often not secured with screws. It is mounted with holes on plastic rods protruding from the body. On some models, the board is secured with one or more bolts.

Device repair

A computer mouse can fail for various reasons. The most common:

• clogging;
• oxidation of metal contacts;
• damage to the wheel axle;
• wire damage.

Almost all problems can be fixed at home. To do this you need to follow some steps:

• Prepare the necessary tools.
• Disconnect the mouse from the computer.
• Disassemble the case by pressing on the latches or unscrewing the screws.
• Open the case halves using a screwdriver with a rubber or plastic bat that will not leave scratches on the plastic of the device.
• You need to disconnect parts of the mouse carefully, without sudden movements, so as not to break the internal wires.
• There is a chip inside. It needs to be disconnected and removed from the groove, as well as other buttons if we are talking about a gaming mouse.
• After repair, assembly must be carried out in the reverse order.

Repair may consist of the following manipulations:

• The broken wire should be soldered.
• A broken wheel axle can be made from a regular paper clip.
• Clogged areas should be cleaned with a special wipe or clean soft cloth.

After all the necessary activities have been completed, you can begin assembly. First, install the wheel in place, screw the board and return the additional buttons to their place. Then you need to carefully connect the halves of the housing and screw in the bolts, or press the parts together at the locations of the latches until a characteristic click is heard. The mouse is assembled - you can check its operation.

Preparing tools

To disassemble and repair the mouse, you will need a minimum set of tools:

• Screwdriver Set;
• scissors;
• soldering iron

You should use medical gloves to avoid leaving greasy fingerprints on the board or internal contacts during the repair process. To remove blockages you need a special napkin. In extreme cases, a piece of soft, clean cloth will do. Do not use water with detergents or solvents for cleaning. You need to take regular alcohol. You can moisten a cotton pad with it and wipe the board, wheel, and body from the inside. The optical sensor is cleaned with a toothpick and cotton wool, also soaked in alcohol.

Wireless mouse repair

Wireless devices often fail due to dead batteries. If the mouse stops responding to movement or responds poorly to manipulation, then most likely the batteries should be replaced. Most wireless models have an operating indicator light, so the health of the batteries can be checked by the indicator glowing red.

Discharged batteries are easily removed. On the “sole” of the mouse you need to open the compartment cover and remove the batteries. It also wouldn’t hurt to check the contacts in the device and on the battery terminals. Over time they oxidize. The resulting deposits are removed with a rag soaked in alcohol. enjoy sandpaper not recommended - you can remove the protective galvanic film.

Computer mouse - small, but very important device for PC users. It experiences heavy mechanical load during active use. Over time, this leads to breakdowns, most of which can be fixed at home. A few screwdrivers, a soft cloth, ammonia and gloves, as well as a little patience and a serious approach to repairs will save money and time.