1. Assign a drive letter, the system will not see a drive without a letter.
2. A program like Acronis will help you.
3. You can find the boot partition magic, and use it to work with partitions.

It’s easier to “password” user accounts of the operating system (but keep in mind that in Windows OS you can simply “reset” it). And a password for the entire disk can be set using special. software for data encryption (DriveCrypt, for example).

I don’t know what it is, but go to the root of this disk with a “third-party file manager” that shows hidden and system files, Far for example, and delete everything there, or at least look at what files are there. and best of all, copy everything you need from there and format it.

Mmmmmm, let me see...
I have 80 (at work) and it’s calling

and at home the note is from 60, that’s also enough

PySy And it’s not good to brag. Didn't your mom teach you? :)

What do jumpers have to do with it if the disk doesn’t even “buzz”? That is, the plates do not spin. And this cannot be cured with jumpers.
Or the disk is completely dead. Or, if you’re sooooo lucky, the power protection worked. And this can be cured in the workshop.

http://shmizok.times.lv

when China recovered after that tsunami (((

Until it is possible... when formatting, you select which of the disks you want to Format...

If you look on the Internet, there are a lot of programs that can solve this problem. Most of them are paid (shareware in native language), but this does not mean that even a paid program will not harm the performance of your unit. It is highly not recommended to use programs of this type, they do not provide any guarantee, especially those that will install protection at the level of the boot sector of the hard drive - you will also lose the primary one (supposedly)...

Have a nice time everyone! This article is devoted to the topic of HDD hard drive devices operating via the SATA interface and is for informational purposes only! We will clearly show you how to disassemble a hard drive. We will simply disassemble it and visually study its structure.

Therefore immediately

WARNING: Do not disassemble the computer hard drive! Never, under any circumstances, do with your hard drive what is described in this article!

Next, you will see and understand why you cannot disassemble the “working” hard drive. In this article, we will analyze a completely faulty HDD, which can no longer be restored.

Let's start with an external examination. The front side with a metal cover and sticker looks quite nice. Please note that this cover is secured with special star screws. However, absolutely all hard drive components are secured with such screws.

But what you and I see from the reverse side (bottom) will shock any radio amateur, and indeed any person who has anything to do with electronics. Deep scratches on the control board are clearly visible, as well as the absence of a cable from the motor control controller.

So the conclusion is clear: our “hard” was in the hands of a vandal or, most likely, a small child and is not working with 100% probability.

And the second conclusion: a hard drive is a fragile thing and requires special handling. Therefore, you cannot drop it, throw it, throw it, disassemble it, and, even more so, leave it alone with small children.

So, armed with a star screwdriver, unscrew all the cover screws. For some reason she doesn’t want to act! It turns out that there is another screw hidden under the factory sticker. We unscrew it, remove the cover and admire the beauty of this engineering miracle. Beautiful, isn't it? It looks like some kind of expensive record player. Although, in general, in essence it is so.

The basis of our “hard” is made up of two aluminum disks coated with a ferromagnetic layer (the disks can be made of any other non-magnetic material, for example, durable glass, only the coating matters). The second most important part is the movable rod with the write/read head.

The rotation of the disks is controlled by a small motor controlled by a controller on the board (the cable from which in our case is broken). The movement of the rod with the head is carried out according to the principle of an electromagnet. At the back it has a coil to which electric current is supplied. The coil itself is located between two permanent magnets. Depending on the current strength, the strength of the electromagnetic field changes and the rod deviates at a certain angle. This mechanism is controlled by a separate controller. Do you see the train to the right of the bar in the photo above? It is through it that control occurs, as well as data exchange between the head and the board (the brain of the hard drive).

As we have already noted, the hard design has two disks mounted on the motor spindle and separated by bushings and a special bulkhead. Since there are two disks, there should also be two heads. No! There are actually four heads, since writing/reading occurs on both sides of each disk.

Unfortunately, it was not possible to remove the board carefully, since the “stars” with which it is attached are much smaller. So I just broke it out as carefully as possible.

On the board are:

• a chip, like a BIOS, that records the manufacturer, model, capacity and other factory parameters
• several controllers for controlling mechanical parts
• cache (small random access memory) for data exchange
• directly the data transfer module, including via the SATA interface (contacts from it are visible at the bottom of the board)
• microprocessor that controls and synchronizes the operation of all modules
• other auxiliary chips

USEFUL:

To summarize, I would like to say two things.

Firstly, the article is for informational purposes only. It simply clearly demonstrates how you can theoretically disassemble a hard drive and demonstrates its internal structure. You cannot disassemble a working, normal hard drive.

Second point related to the first one. I would really like the reader, now knowing about the structure of the hard drive and having clearly seen what parts it consists of, once again, trying to connect his drive to another computer (no matter in what way) or during production, to understand that the hard drive - the device is electronic and at the same time electromechanical. It has a lot of small and fragile parts, an open circuit board, and a lot of moving mechanical parts. However, this “device” is not cheap. Therefore, my friends, be gentle with your “hard”, love it)))

But seriously, be extremely careful when connecting and transporting hard drives so that their service life lasts as long as possible.

P.S. You can see a full photo report of how this hard drive was disassembled.

When some hardware problems appear with a hard drive, if you have the proper experience, it makes sense to inspect the device yourself, without resorting to the help of specialists. Also, those people who just want to gain knowledge related to assembly and the general view from the inside resort to disassembling disks on their own. Typically, non-working or unnecessary HDDs are used for this purpose.

First, I would like to warn beginners who want to try to fix the hard drive themselves if any problems arise, for example, a knock under the cover. Incorrect and careless actions can easily damage the drive and lead to permanent damage and loss of all data stored on it. Therefore, you should not take risks, wanting to save money on the services of professionals. If possible, make backup copies of all important information.

Do not allow debris to get on the hard drive plate. Even a small speck of dust is larger than the flight height of the disk head. Dust, hair, fingerprints or other obstacles to the movement of the read head on the plate can damage the device, and your data will be lost beyond recovery. Perform the analysis in a clean and sterile environment, wearing special gloves.

A standard hard drive from a computer or laptop looks like this:

The back is usually the back of the controller that is held on by torx screws. These same screws are also on the front of the case. In some cases, an additional screw may be hidden under the factory sticker, so after unscrewing the visible screws, open the cover very smoothly, without sudden movements.

Under the cover there will be those components of the hard drive that are responsible for writing and reading data: the head and the disk platters themselves.

Depending on the volume of the device and its price category, there may be several disks and heads: from one to four. Each such plate is put on the motor spindle, arranged according to the “storey” principle and separated from the other plate by a sleeve and a bulkhead. There can be twice as many heads as disks because each platter has both sides for writing and reading.

The disks rotate due to the operation of the motor, which is controlled by the controller through a loop. The principle of operation of the head is simple: it rotates along the disk without touching it and reads the magnetized areas. Accordingly, all interaction of these parts of the disk is based on the principle of an electromagnet.

The head has a coil on the back where the current flows. This coil is located in the middle of two permanent magnets. The strength of the electric current affects the strength of the electromagnetic field, as a result of which the bar chooses one or another angle of inclination. This design depends on a separate controller.

The controller contains the following elements:

In this article we told you how to disassemble a hard drive and what parts it consists of. This information will help you understand the principle of operation of the HDD, as well as possible problems that arise during operation of the device. We remind you once again that the information is for informational purposes only and shows how to disassemble an unusable drive. If your disk is functioning normally, then you cannot disassemble it yourself - there is a high risk of damaging it.

Using screws to fasten any products is convenient and reliable. But it often happens that you urgently need to unscrew a screw, but there is no suitable screwdriver at hand. Of course, using a screwdriver is the simplest and safest method, but if necessary, you can do without it. How to unscrew a screw without a screwdriver? Today you will learn about it!

Let's start off with, a screw is a cylindrical rod with a special head onto which a screw groove is applied. Screws are produced according to a number of regulatory documents, including GOST 1144-80, GOST 1145-80, etc.

However, there are two main types of hardware:

• classic screws;
• self-tapping(also known as self-tapping screws).

For designation in this case, the diameter and length of the screw are used (for example, a product with a diameter of 5 mm and a length of 3.5 cm will be designated as 5x35 mm). In addition, hardware can be classified according to the shape of the slot and the features of the head itself:

• with a flat (countersunk) head;
• with the same, but smaller type;
• with press washer;
• with a hemispherical head.

All of these varieties are produced with a Phillips slot, with a straight (flat) and with a Torx slot (the latter is also known as an “asterisk”), as well as with an internal hexagon and other, less popular options. There are also self-tapping screws with hexagonal and octagonal heads (roofing), which are also made with different slots.

On a note! According to the type of thread, screws are also divided into several varieties, which is determined, first of all, by the materials being connected and the specific purpose (for metal, wood, drywall or small household appliances).

Methods for unscrewing a screw without a screwdriver

Let's consider the most effective methods depending on the specific type of slot. Let's start with the cruciform.

Option No1. Phillips slot

First, note that some screws may have one recess on the head longer than the other. If so, then you should only work with a longer recess to make the task easier. Let us also add that the edges of these recesses can be worn down, and therefore you should work carefully, otherwise you can damage the product.

One of the easiest ways is to use a coin. The method often works only with small screws. The coin must be inserted into the groove and then turned counterclockwise.

You can try to unscrew a loose screw with your fingernail. The steps are the same as in the previous method.

Take a knife, place it in the recess (long if they are different lengths) and scroll. Be careful, because if the screw is tightly tightened and the knife you are using is of poor quality, then it (the knife) can be bent without achieving the desired result.

Step 5. Use an old CD. Place its edge in the groove and turn it. The CD itself may suffer as a result of such manipulations, so make sure in advance that it is no longer needed. This method will definitely not help with a tightly tightened screw.

Step 6. You can cut a long groove on the head with a hacksaw, but this method is effective only when the hardware is not completely twisted, that is, if the head protrudes somewhat above the surface. Hold the saw at a right angle to the head, saw slowly and carefully. Next, when the groove is ready, the screw can be unscrewed with a flat-head screwdriver or improvised means (for example, a credit card).

Step 7 Take a flathead screwdriver of the appropriate size if you don't have a Phillips head screwdriver. Typically, this can only work with large/medium diameter screws. Be careful not to tear off the edges of the slot!

Step 8 Another option is to use a toothbrush. Melt one end of it with a lighter, then immediately insert it into the recess on the head of the screw. After waiting a bit for the melted plastic to harden, turn the brush counterclockwise. Of course, this will not help if the screw is tightened too tightly.

Option No2. Flat spline

As noted earlier, there is only one recess on the head of such a screw. If you do not have a flat-head screwdriver, you can unscrew the product using improvised means. Let's see how this can be done.

Use a credit card - insert it into the groove and try to turn it. Use only an unnecessary card, because it may well be damaged during unscrewing.

You can also take an “ear” from a tin can (soda, beer). Insert the broken “ear” into the groove on the head of the hardware and twist.

Use a regular coin - insert it into the groove and try to turn it the same way.

Step 5. If the screw is not tightened very tightly, you can try to unscrew it with your fingernail. The method is not always effective due to obvious reasons.

Step 6. Try to unscrew the screw with a knife, inserting the blade of the latter into the groove. There will be a risk that you will bend the knife.

Step 7 The last method is to use pliers. Suitable if the screw is not completely tightened. It is advisable to use needle-nose pliers for this rather than regular ones.

Option No3. Unscrew the Torx screw

We are talking here about screws with a recess in the form of a six-pointed star on the head. Such screws, by the way, are protected - with a rod in the center of the star. In any case, proceed with caution, because the edges of such a slot can easily be damaged.

Try using a flathead screwdriver. Insert its tip into a pair of opposite rays, carefully scroll counterclockwise. And if the screw is protected, then insert the screwdriver between the rod and any of the beams, and turn in the opposite direction.

To unscrew a protected Torx screw, try using a screwdriver for an unprotected one, but in this case the rod on the head will have to be removed (this can be done, for example, using a center punch and a hammer).

Another possible option is to drill a hole on the tip of a regular screwdriver for the star rod.

Finally, you can use the same toothbrush by melting one end with a lighter (proceed in the same way as described in one of the previous methods).

Option No4. Unscrew the small screw

Let's say right away that small screws are especially difficult to unscrew without having the appropriate tools on hand. As a rule, such screws are found in various electronic devices. Ideally, tools designed for repairing glasses should be used for unscrewing (there will be no difficulties in finding them, and they are not very expensive). If such equipment is not available, resort to one of the methods described below.

Table No1. How to unscrew a small screw.

Steps, photo	Description of actions
	Use a knife - place its sharp end into the slot and try to turn it. It is advisable to insert the tip at a slight angle to increase the contact area.
	Use a nail file. Proceed by analogy with the previous method.
	If you have small scissors with pointed ends on hand, you can use them. But let us immediately note that such scissors are not the best option for removing screws.
	Use tweezers. Insert its sharp end into the groove and try to turn it.

On a note! Another good option is to use a regular nail, the tetrahedral point of which is ideal for a cross slot. For example, an 80mm nail will work for mobile phone screws.

Screw with torn edges

Screws with a flat/hemispherical head (or rather, slots) often break off, and there may be several reasons for this:

• using old, low-quality or unsuitable tools;
• incorrect screwing (with a hammer, for example);
• insufficient force when unscrewing/tightening and, as a result, the screwdriver pops out of the slot;
• “souring” of the screw (corrosion);
• incorrect use of hardware (without drilling when necessary, or for unsuitable material).

Method No1. Twisting

Carefully inspect the screwdriver you use to remove the screw and, if necessary, replace it with a more suitable one. It is important that the tip fits tightly into the groove and is not damaged. If replacing the screwdriver does not help, you can use other methods. If you need, for example, to unscrew a screw from a piece of wood, then hit the head, and then tap the tool with each application of force. You can also use pliers if possible, as we already mentioned above. Or you can use rubber bands to seal it.

On a note! To make the self-tapping screw start to rotate, use a few drops of lubricant or brake fluid or kerosene. You can also heat the screw so that it expands - this way the material surrounding it is deformed, and the product can be unscrewed.

If all else fails, you can take drastic measures.

Video - The best ways to remove a broken screw

Method No2. Sawing

You can try to unscrew any type of screw with a flat-head screwdriver. Using a grinder or a hacksaw, make a straight slot in the screw head. But remember that the slot must be at least ½ the height of the head, otherwise you risk destroying it. This method can be used in combination with others.

Method No3. Extractors

Another good way to remove a screw. Select a drill so that its diameter is smaller than that of the threaded part of the hardware, make a recess in the head, cut a left-hand thread there and unscrew the screw using conical extractors. This is suitable for all types of heads, but in the case of self-tapping screws you will have to choose a different method - they are produced hardened.

What conclusions can be drawn? If you need to unscrew a screw with torn edges, the easiest way to do this is by welding (or gluing, if the force is not too great) a nut or some kind of stop to the remaining part of the hardware, heating it and making a cut.

Video - How to unscrew a licked screw

5 /5 (8 )

This photo report will be a good addition. Firstly, the article did not include all the photographs, but here is the complete set with a description. Secondly, when preparing this report, and especially when compiling descriptions of the photographs, I remembered many points and details that were not in the article. These details relate directly to the design of the hard drive and will be of interest to those who are interested in disassembling the hard drive or repairing hard drives.

Original “hard”, front side (top)
The hard drive is assembled with star screws; you need a special screwdriver with a star cross-section, in this case hexagonal.
Our test subject has the most popular interface for connecting hard drives - SATA (although for our experiments this does not matter).
A hard drive after it was in the hands of a small child. Result: the motor power cable is broken, mechanical damage to the board. Result: the hard drive is 100% damaged.
As it turned out, under the factory sticker the manufacturer placed additional fasteners - another star screw (it took me a long time to figure out why the cover could not be removed).
Finally the cover is off! Indescribable beauty. It looks like some kind of ultra-modern record player. Everything glitters and sparkles. It’s even a pity to pick further (the author’s face is reflected in the reflection).
I took pictures from different angles so that everything could be seen in detail. By the way, I forgot to say in the article, but now I saw: on the lower left side of the case there is a special pocket where a bag of silica gel is placed to maintain the humidity level inside the hard drive case.
Another general plan for clarity.
A rod with writing (reading) heads. The rod is mounted on a bushing. Its tail is hidden under a powerful permanent magnet. Below is another similar magnet. Thus, the “tail” of the rod is in the magnetic field of two permanent magnets.
Here it is - the upper permanent magnet. An ordinary metal plate, but very highly magnetized. By the way, I have already thought of a use for it. When you disassemble equipment that has small screws (laptop, tablet), it is convenient to use such a magnet to pull them out of the channel after unscrewing them (for this, the tip of a screwdriver is usually magnetized, but it happens that it is not magnetized). Perhaps sometime later I’ll write an article on “how to magnetize a screwdriver.”
The tail of the rod is a coil to which electric current is supplied, that is, an electromagnet. When the fields of the electromagnetic coil and permanent magnets interact, the rod begins to move. Depending on the voltage and intensity of its supply (frequency), the rod deflects at different speeds to a certain angle.
Contact plate connecting the rod with the heads and the controller on the main board. A rather complex device, since one loop completely controls the movement of the rod, transfers data from disks to memory (when reading), from memory to heads (when writing), as well as other control commands (for example, erasing information or transferring its individual parts ). If you also take into account that there are as many as four write (read) heads... in general, a complex data transmission and control system.
This photo shows that one of the disks has been removed from the spindle. Below it is another disk. Each of the disks is separated from the other by a metal ring, as well as an aluminum bulkhead, which is correctly called a “separator”. A separator (separator) is a rather interesting engineering solution designed to distribute and balance the air flows that occur when the disks rotate.
One of the disks removed from the hard drive and fastening from the spindle (fitted tightly over the disks and tightened with screws on six sides).
Aluminum separator. The discs inside rotate at a huge speed of several thousand revolutions per minute, depending on the model and manufacturer. In this case, strong air currents arise that prevent the write/read heads from touching the disks (the reading/writing process occurs at a distance of several nm). The separator is designed to balance air flows to improve aerodynamics. The design of the heads and separator is specifically designed to take these air flows into account.
Hard drive with disks removed from the spindle.
The cable that powers and controls the hard drive motor has been mercilessly torn out. From this we can conclude that this hard drive can no longer be restored.
A rod with heads and a cable with a contact plate removed from the axis.
Barbell in profile. You can clearly see that it has four heads at the end. One of the control controllers is located directly on the boom.
The control unit board is the brain of the hard drive. Here are all the mechanical control controllers, a microprocessor, a memory cache, a ROM chip with all the device parameters stitched into it, starting from the manufacturer, batch number, date and ending with technical parameters...
Two permanent magnets, between which the “tail” of the rod with heads moves. I don’t know why I took a photo, just for the sake of it.