In Moscow and the Moscow region, from January 15, 2014, on-air digital television broadcasting is carried out only from DVB-T2 on UHF channels 24, 30 and 34.

To reliably receive digital television channels in the city of Zhukovsky, Moscow Region, I first used an active indoor antenna “Delta”, which did not always provide stable reception of the radio signal inside an apartment building.

The best results were shown by the previously published Triple Square antenna. At the same time, some inconveniences with the placement of an indoor antenna for reliable signal reception were not eliminated. To install the antenna on the balcony facing the side of the transmitting center, a modification of the Kharchenko loop antenna was made. It is flat and easily placed on the wall of the balcony. The antenna is made of single-core copper cable purchased at the Elektromaster store. To create it you needed a ruler, a felt-tip pen, pliers, a 60-watt soldering iron and half an hour of free time. The insulation from a copper core with a diameter of 4 mm was removed only at the junction of the wire and the soldering of the television cable.

Calculation of the Kharchenko antenna for DVB-T2 reception

The side of a square is determined simply. It is equal to a quarter of the wavelength ( λ ) of the received radio signal.

For the first multiplex (30th channel) λ=300000/546(MHz)=549.45(mm). Accordingly, the side of the square a=λ/4, a=549.45/4=137(mm).

This antenna has a gain (compared to a dipole) of the order of 8...10 dB, a wide bandwidth (reliably receives signals from 24, 30 and 34 television channels), is not demanding on manufacturing precision and fits well with a coaxial cable such as 75 Ohm , and 50 Ohm. Distance between points A And b, where the central core and braid of the television cable are connected, about 10 mm. The antenna gain can be increased by 2...3 dB if it is equipped with a reflector (made of a metal sheet or mesh) located parallel to the antenna surface at a distance h=0.21...027λ. Its dimensions should exceed the width and height of the antenna fabric by 5...10%, respectively. Due to the small area of ​​the balcony, I was more satisfied with the “double eight”, but without a reflector. It provided high-quality reception of digital and analogue television signals in the UHF range.

As reference material, the table shows the radio frequencies of terrestrial analogue and digital TV channels that can be caught on an terrestrial antenna in Moscow and the Moscow region.

Frequency plan for terrestrial analogue television in Moscow and the Moscow region
Channel number	Channel frequency	Channel name	Note
		First channel	B I (channel 1-3)
			B I (channel 1-3)
		Russia 2 (Sports)	B III (channel 6-12)
			B III (channel 6-12)
			B III (channel 6-12)
			UHF (21-69 channel)
		Moscow region	UHF (21-69 channel)
			UHF (21-69 channel)
			UHF (21-69 channel)
		Home	UHF (21-69 channel)
		Culture	UHF (21-69 channel)
			UHF (21-69 channel)
			UHF (21-69 channel)
		Channel 5 St. Petersburg	UHF (21-69 channel)
			UHF (21-69 channel)
			UHF (21-69 channel)
			UHF (21-69 channel)
			UHF (21-69 channel)
			UHF (21-69 channel)
Terrestrial digital television from January 15, 2014 is carried out only with DVB-T2
		First channel. Russia 1. Russia 2 (Sports). Russia 24. Culture. Carousel. Channel 5 St. Petersburg. NTV. OTR. TVC	UHF (21-69 channel)
		Ren TV. Saved. STS. Home. NTV plus sports. Star. World. TNT. TV3. Muz TV.	UHF (21-69 channel)
		Sports 1. Seeker. Russian novel. Sundress. Mother and Child. Moscow Trust. Music. Comedy. LifeNews. Our football	UHF (21-69 channel)

Good luck in your technical creativity!

Radio waves penetrate the space around us. We are all already accustomed to wireless technologies, especially Wi-Fi, but not everyone is satisfied with the coverage of home routers. Walls, trees and other obstacles weaken the signal. If the connection quality is quite suitable for an apartment, then for a suburban area of ​​several hundred square meters the power of the routers is clearly not enough. Close to home, for example in a garage, I would also like to use the home Internet without laying additional cables or installing powerful equipment. You never know where you might need to amplify the radio signal! In any case, using an antenna will be the simplest and most profitable option.

We use the experience of radio engineering

A simple piece of conductor attached to an antenna can, of course, improve the signal, but often it will not work. And all because of the properties of radio waves. The television model will also not give any results for Wi-Fi, since it is designed to work with television broadcast frequencies. To create the right antenna, you need to know the wavelength of the signal you plan to amplify. The shape of the device should be borrowed from radio amateurs. For example, a biquad antenna has long established itself as an easy-to-manufacture and reliable signal amplification device. These compact devices provide decent gain of 11 dBi and above, while the devices built into the router do not exceed 5 dBi.

For people who are extremely far from the electromagnetic part of physics, these indicators can be deciphered as an increase in Wi-Fi connection speed several times, as well as an increase in connection distance. The biquad antenna is directional, covering a sector of 40-50° in front of itself, which is quite suitable for connecting a building remote from the main residence, as well as for creating a local wireless network between fixed stations. Various craftsmen note a stable signal at a distance of 400 to 2500 m, but this is unlikely to be needed; a few tens of meters are enough.

To the store with money or with a soldering iron in hand?

It is always easier to purchase a ready-made factory product, but the price of such a device is commensurate with the cost of a new router, and the performance is not always reliable. Inexpensive models from the friendly East are quite fragile, and the contacts and connections in them are far from perfect. Where can I get a good biquadrat device? A WiFi antenna can be assembled by any radio amateur with his own hands. For this you will need a soldering iron. If you are familiar with this tool, the instructions will tell you what to do and how to do it.

Biquadrat - an antenna consisting of two squares made of wire or other electrically conductive material. They are located in the same plane and connected in a certain way. This circuit is the main working part of the antenna, a vibrator designed to receive and transmit radio waves. It is best to make such an antenna element from a piece of single-core power copper wire with a cross-section of at least 2 mm 2.

The thickness depends rather on the selected antenna dimensions, the number of mounts and conditions of use. This only affects the strength of the structure, and not the quality of the signal, so it is better to select based on the planned dimensions and the availability of material. The simplest homemade biquad antenna is assembled only from a circuit connected to a coaxial cable, as shown in the figure above.

Additional materials and tools

Of course, to improve the quality of the antenna, additional parts will be required. A plate made of any electrically conductive material is suitable as a reflector; the only requirements are for wear resistance and strength. Even a CD or aluminum foil used in cooking for baking will work. The main thing is to secure it on a flat, solid base made of wood or plastic, where the rest of the antenna parts will be installed. Additionally, you will need dielectric fasteners to firmly fix the antenna relative to the reflector, as well as a resistance of 50 Ohms.

A special plug will allow you to connect the device to the router, which you will have to purchase in the store. If the router does not have connectors, like most inexpensive models, you will have to disassemble it and solder the cable directly to the board. Remember, such actions with the router will void its warranty, and all responsibility for such actions will fall entirely on you. The remaining materials can be selected locally from what is found in the home craftsman's pantry.

As is clear from the above, a mandatory tool is a soldering iron, some solder and flux. A ruler with millimeter divisions will allow you to maintain the exact dimensions of the product, and pliers or pliers will be required to accurately bend the wire into a contour. A knife and side cutters (nippers) will be needed to work with the cable, and when drilling holes you will need a drill or screwdriver and a drill bit.

Beginners may find soldering difficult, but remember that mastery comes with time. You need to carry out all work with a heated soldering iron slowly, observing safety precautions and all the necessary steps so as not to get burned and make a strong connection. Before using an electrical appliance, it is imperative to check the integrity of the housing, cable and plug.

Protect the workbench area from possible damage from molten solder or hot flux drops by covering it with a wooden shield or special fireproof material. Do not leave a hot soldering iron unattended, even after turning it off. A heated device can cause fires on surfaces and objects made of flammable materials. For those who are holding a soldering iron in their hands for the first time, it is recommended to make several connections on leftover material or pieces of similar wire to get the hang of it.

A few formulas

Before starting work, we will make a small calculation of the biquad antenna. The range of most Wi-Fi routers, according to the IEEE 802.11n standard, is 2.4 GHz. Using the formula for wavelength, speed, and frequency, you divide the speed of light by the frequency. 0.1249 m or 125 mm is approximately the size we need, which means that the side of the antenna squares must be a multiple of this exact distance to operate in the desired range. For the small antenna described here, a distance of 32 mm was chosen. Of course, a multiple increase in this distance will lead to an improved signal over a larger coverage area.

Optimal reflector

There were many ideas on what to use as a reflector, but for this size, an empty circuit board measuring 10 x 10 cm was optimal. Firstly, this simplified the connection of the coaxial cable braid to the reflector. Using regular solder, the cable is firmly installed in the desired location. Secondly, the rigidity of the textolite completely satisfies the dimensions of the product and allows you to eliminate the need for additional fasteners. Problems when using a model of this size may arise if the dimensions are not accurately observed, so all actions are carried out using a millimeter ruler.

Progress

A homemade biquad antenna for wifi is quite simple to make. In the center of the circuit board or other suitable sheet of metal, you need to drill a hole equal to the diameter of the coaxial cable or slightly larger. The cable must be stripped of 2.5 cm from the top insulation and carefully inserted into the hole in the board. The upper shielding braid or cable casing is soldered along the entire circumference. The cable must fit tightly into the gearbox board, because apart from it, this model does not provide mounts for the antenna. You can additionally use a metal tube to strengthen the structure; this is especially true if you decide to increase the size of the antenna.

Antenna location

A biquad vibrator will require 256 mm of copper wire. You can mark the bends every 32 mm with a marker and take a little more wire to cut off the excess at the end. Or you can bend a precisely measured piece of wire exactly in the middle each time. Its ends need to be carefully soldered and moved away from the opposite corner by 2 mm; you can also leave the connection of the ends for the next stage.

The last step is to solder the connections between the biquad vibrator and the cable. Monitor its location relative to the reflector; the distance between them should be maintained at about 15 mm throughout the entire plane. This gap has been measured experimentally by various testers. If you have the equipment, you can personally search for the optimal distance with the best coefficient for a specific model.

There is no limit to perfection

Point your antenna towards the work area and connect it to the router using a special plug, or install it directly onto the work board using a soldering iron. An increase in Wi-Fi signal range will not take long to arrive. What else can be done to increase the power of the antenna, besides increasing the size? Those who have already built something similar may be interested in a double or triple biquad antenna. With their own hands, craftsmen achieve signal amplification by 2 and 4 dBi more, and this is a tangible improvement.

This is done by increasing the number of squares and, accordingly, the area of ​​the reflector (metal gearbox). Craftsmen also create arc-shaped or circular antennas based on a biquadrat, the main rule in the manufacture of which is to strictly maintain a distance of 15 mm from the reflector over the entire area of ​​the device. It is also worth mentioning that wire crossings should be insulated so that there are no conductor connections.

The places where the biquad antenna is installed can be very diverse. Most often, such products are mounted on windows or outside the building. A plastic container is perfect for protecting a small model like the one described above from the elements. The signal amplification obtained with a biquad antenna matches, and sometimes exceeds, factory-produced models.

I would like to present to your attention an antenna option for long-distance reception of digital broadcasting. Of course, there is nothing fundamentally new in my product, but perhaps someone will find the idea of ​​combining an amplifier with an antenna useful. The Kharchenko antenna is attractive primarily for its ease of manufacture, good repeatability, sufficient broadband, decent gain (up to 9 dB with a reflector is stated, but I still have nothing to measure with) with small dimensions. In my opinion, it works better than the familiar “dryer”.

So, about the reasons that prompted the desire to create this work. In our city, of course, there is a tower from which the first digital multiplex is broadcast and they promise to turn on the second (for two years now), but I want it here and now, like many. In a neighboring city, the second package has been turned on for a long time, but here, of course, it is not received on an indoor antenna, and even on an external one without an amplifier. I had such an antenna in the garden, I recently gave it to a neighbor in exchange for material, so I had the opportunity to show how I make it.

Manufacturing does not require materials that are in short supply, even if buying everything will be cheaper than the factory price, not to mention the super-advertised ones with the promise of receiving 80(?) channels (there are some, I read about this scam myself).

Materials:
1. Cable piece 4x16mm² - 1.5m.
2. A piece of SIP wire – 1.5-2m.
3. Sheet aluminum 1-1.5mm thick. 60x200mm. (I cut it from an old pan)
4. Antenna amplifier from the “dryer”.
5. Clamps for attaching the antenna to the mast.
6. Silicone sealant
7. And of course the cable and plug.
8. Small junction box.
9. M5 screws (countersunk head) with nuts and washers - 2 pcs.

Tools:
1. Hacksaw for metal
2. Metal scissors
3. Drill (I used a manual one)
4. Drills 1.5 and 5mm.
5. Straight file or flat file.

First of all, we calculate our antenna. Without bothering too much, I took data on the frequencies I was interested in from. In my city this is 602 MHz (channel 37) of the first package and 770 MHz (channel 58) of the promised second. I am interested in the data from the neighbors -546 MHz (channel 30) first and 498 MHz (channel 24) second multiplexes, so I will make an antenna on them. I plugged the resulting frequencies, more precisely the average frequency, into an online calculator and obtained the required dimensions.

At the next stage, prepare the material - strip the cable

and SIP to obtain bare wire.

We extract a piece of aluminum sheet from an old pan.

Using pliers, we bend the “figure eight” of the antenna from a 16mm² (ø5.1mm) cable core.

We overlap the joint of the figure eight, grinding off half the diameter with a file.

We drill ø1.5mm joints for rivets.

We rivet aluminum strips 7 mm wide and 50 mm long (with a margin) to the cable connection point.

We bend the strips so that the amplifier can be attached to them using screws.

In the strips we drill ø5mm holes for the amplifier mounting screws, roughly speaking locally, using the amplifier itself as a template, maintaining a distance of 10mm (or whatever is needed according to calculations) between the plates. We countersink the holes to a diameter of 7mm (the diameter of the countersunk screw head).

I would call the next step mockery of the amplifier.

The amplifier in this design is not a luxury, but a means to push a weak signal through a cable, in which it would attenuate in the first meter, to the receiver.

Since its dimensions did not fit into the junction box, but it had to be inserted, its edges and the standard cable fastening were simply a barbaric method - metal scissors - cut to the required size, and a hole was drilled in the center of the board for a fastening screw. The vital organs of the amplifier were not damaged during this execution.

The antenna reflector is made in the same way according to online calculations. The frames are bent from the same cable core as the antenna. The large frame is curved according to the calculated dimensions of the reflector, and the small one is intended for attaching the antenna to the mast, brackets (metal insulators) of the antenna sheet, and at the same time to increase the rigidity of the array.

We connect the frames together with a strip of aluminum, followed by crimping them with pliers.

We get the following construction:

The grid is made from single SIP cores, alternately wrapped around the long sides of the frames with a pitch of 10mm.

In order to maintain the grating pitch and size (to tighten the sides of the reflector into an “hourglass”), I recommend making a template from a 10mm lath, cutting cutouts in it for the frames to size. By some miracle, I still have the old template (it served as a lining for the leg of a chest of drawers for two years), so I’m not showing how to make it, and it’s understandable.

As a result, the reflector looks like this:

Reminiscent of a refrigerator grille.
In general, of course, you can do without a reflector, but in my case it was necessary not so much to increase the signal of the distant station as to weaken the signal of the near one, although the extra gain (in my opinion, an incorrect expression for an antenna, or rather the directivity coefficient) would not hurt.

The connection between the antenna and the reflector is made on brackets (“metal insulators”) made of aluminum.

All permanent connections are made with rivets made from a single SIP core.

If there is no standard fastening (everything unnecessary has already been cut off and soldered), we simply solder the reduction cable to the amplifier board.

Next, we hide the amplifier in a junction box and, due to the harsh weather conditions of operation, coat all joints and holes with silicone sealant.

We rivet the antenna sheet through the brackets to the reflector, and we get the finished product:

Access to the mobile Internet is necessary for many people because it allows them to quickly solve current problems at a considerable distance from home. However, Internet connection operators cannot always provide high-quality services to their consumers for the reason that reliable communications are created only in an area of ​​reliable reception, which is limited by the transmitter power, terrain and distance.

You can improve the quality of the digital signal and increase its reception range by connecting to an antenna. It’s not difficult to buy it in a store or make it yourself.

Among the factory antenna models, it is easy to find powerful devices with improved performance. But quite often you can get by with a simple design, assembled from improvised means with your own hands thanks to the popular development of Kharchenko. In terms of output parameters, it quite reliably ensures the operation of mobile devices, creating a gain of up to 3÷4 decibels even without a reflector, and with its use - up to 9.

Required tools and materials

To make a Kharchenko antenna for a 3G modem with your own hands, you can get by with a minimal set of devices and tools that almost every home craftsman has.

From the materials we will need:

• a piece of copper wire 30 cm long, which can be bought in a store in a pinch;
• a small piece of coaxial television cable from one to two meters;
• plastic cap from a bottle of water or household chemicals;
• tin, foil or used DVD disc;
• ruler, pencil or marker for marking;
• cable cutting knife;
• pliers or small vice for bending the wire;
• glue of any brand for plastics - you can make a homemade one by dissolving ordinary polystyrene foam in AI-95 gasoline or acetone at the bottom of a glass jar or glass.

Design and dimensions of the Kharchenko antenna

The 3G modem operates at a frequency of 2100 megahertz, which corresponds to a wavelength of 143 mm. In practice, there are still models created for 900 MHz or using a combined mode, but they are already losing their relevance.

The main components of the antenna are:

• a vibrator to which waves of electromagnetic oscillations sent by the 3G operator’s transmitter are induced and induced;
• antenna cable with a matching unit that transmits the induced signal from the vibrator;
• signal transmission unit from the cable to the modem input;
• reflector that eliminates interference and reflected signals to increase reception power.

Vibrator requirements

Type of metal

The antenna is usually made from copper or aluminum. At home, given the small size of the vibrator, it is easier to connect the wires by soldering. Therefore, we dwell on copper without even considering a number of its other advantages.

Shape and cross-sectional area

Let’s immediately make a reservation that you can take a thickness of 2.3 mm (section 4 mm square), which will slightly reduce the reception rates. In extreme cases, it is permissible to install with a cross-section of 2.5 mm square, but this will already worsen the signal and increase its attenuation. Although for some areas this is quite acceptable.

Main Dimensions

In relation to the above figure, all indicators are summarized in a table.

Designation and parameter	Size in mm
	50 ohm	75 Ohm
L1, side of the square from the outside	35,8	35,7
L2, square side inside	34,2	34,4
L3, total length	100,3	95,5
L4, width	50,1	52,1
L5, distance at soldering point	2,1	1,8
D, distance between vibrator and reflector	16,4	17,4
B, reflector width	143	143
N, reflector length	143	143

The dimensions given in the table are the optimal solution for practical manufacturing. However, it is simply impossible to maintain them at home with such precision, and it makes no sense when applied to a homemade antenna.

It is quite enough to maintain all dimensions with an accuracy of 1 mm, and to receive a good signal you should pay attention to the symmetry of the squares and the same size of the sides.

Cable requirements for the Kharchenko antenna

The main difference that a home master may encounter is the value of the wave impedance, which can be 75 or 50 Ohms.

To reduce power losses, it is better to use a cable with lower resistance. It is closer in electrical characteristics, better matched, and provides less signal loss.

However, when using one of these types of cable, it is better to more accurately design the mechanical dimensions of the vibrator for it. Then the loss of signal power will be minimal.

Reflector design features

Any metal plate can serve as a screen. It can be cut with scissors from tin or from an old aluminum pan, or even made from a piece of plywood or cardboard and covered with foil. There won't be much difference. If only it blocked the interference coming from any direction.

We suggest using an unnecessary DVD disc for the Kharchenko antenna. One side of it is covered with aluminum foil and does an excellent job of reflecting waves. In addition, it has an aesthetic appearance and greatly simplifies the work.

We only need to lubricate it with glue and secure it to the end of the insert - a cap from a plastic bottle, adjusting the distance of the vibrator from the reflector by adding additional washers or cutting off excess thickness.

When assembling, pay attention to the parallelism of the planes of the vibrator and reflector.

How to assemble a Kharchenko antenna for a 3G modem

Making a vibrator

The main attention should be focused on the quality of the dimensions - ensuring maximum symmetry of the structure. To do this, it is important to make all the faces of the squares exactly the same, which can be done by:

1. preliminary marking of the wire with a marker;
2. using a control template of a certain length.

In the first method, pliers are placed on the wire markings and the latter is bent by hand at an angle of 90 degrees, controlling the bend along the square.

For the second method, you need to bite off a piece of wire slightly larger than the side of the square, as shown in the photo, and then sharpen it with a file to the control size.

The prepared template along with the wire is placed in the jaws of the pliers so that one end, together with the wire, rests on a hard surface, and the other coincides with the exit plane of the jaws (position No. 1).

When the wire is finally bent, the remaining piece is removed with side cutters.

A control measurement of the edges is taken to ensure the symmetry of the structure and the location of all sides in the same plane with control using a ruler.

Connecting the cable and reflector

In the center of a plastic bottle cap or with a knife, cut a tight hole along the diameter of the cable and insert its end. Then we cut it apart, exposing the central core with a screen for tinning and soldering.

Connecting wires with a homemade soldering iron “Moment” is shown in the next photo.

When soldering is completed, the cover is pushed over the cable onto the vibrator. The strength of their connection can be strengthened by using glue and creating small cuts with a needle file in the plastic of the cork.

The DVD disc is inserted into the cable through the central hole and simply glued to the end side of the plug. In our design, the reflector and vibrator have no electrical contact with each other.

Methods for transmitting a 3G signal from an antenna to a modem

The antenna vibrator we assembled together with the reflector ensures normal reception of the electromagnetic wave of the 3G signal through the air from the transmitter and directs its energy through the coaxial cable. Next, it remains to catch it with the modem.

This issue can be resolved in two ways:

1. create a direct metal connection of the coaxial cable wires directly to the modem board;
2. use the created Kharchenko antenna as an intermediate amplification link and, with its help, transmit the received signal to the built-in antenna of the modem.

Method of transmitting information over a wired channel

Here two options can be used when on a modem:

1. there is a connector for connecting to an external antenna;
2. or it doesn't exist.

Option #1

You will need to solder the ends of the coaxial cable to the second half of the connector and connect the antenna through it.

Option No. 2

To directly connect the output from a coaxial cable to the modem board, you will need not only to disassemble the latter, but also to solder the central core with the screen shell to the traces of the microcircuit.

This complex technical work must be performed accurately, safely and in compliance with technology. You can only start with it if you have the appropriate experience. Otherwise, the modem may fail, and then you will have to purchase it again.

An experienced craftsman who knows how to work with electronic microcircuits will solve this issue on his own, and we suggest everyone else take a different path.

Method of transmitting information over a wireless channel

To implement this method, electrodes are soldered to the output ends of the coaxial cable, which operate as a generator unit and emit a received and amplified electromagnetic wave directly to the modem antenna.

We make one turn with any thread along the outer perimeter of the modem case and measure its length with a ruler. I got 70 mm. Add 5 mm and cut out two strips of 75 mm long and 45 and 27 wide from copper foil or tin from a tin can.

We bend the wide plate for the central core to the shape of the modem, and for the screen - into a semicircle and solder them to the Kharchenko antenna.

We draw attention to the absence of electrical contact with the creation of an air gap between them.

Otherwise, as shown in the photo, a short circuit occurs in the output circuits, which turns off the home electrical wiring, and in our case, the signal from the antenna will be blocked and will not pass through to the modem.

Digital television is broadcast in the UHF range. Therefore, you can use almost any UHF antenna. But I needed simple, easily repeatable and strong UHF antenna range.
Such that you could carry it with you, and on occasion you wouldn’t mind giving it to people for a small amount.

The basis was taken from the famous “ eight“, with the difference that I used it without a reflector.
The material for the antenna sheet can be any conductive material of suitable cross-section. It can be copper or aluminum wire with a thickness of 1 to 5 mm, a tube, strip, busbar, corner, profile... I took copper wire with a diameter of 3 mm. Easy to solder, easy to bend during assembly, easy to straighten if bent.
The outer side of the square is 14 cm, the inner side is slightly smaller - 13 cm due to the fact that the middle of the two squares does not converge, about 2 cm from corner to corner.

So, if you are not making an antenna from wire, then measure it this way - the top sides are 14 cm, the sides are 13.

All sizes are approximate. Don't be afraid to get shortchanged or make mistakes. Our plans do not include making an antenna that meets all standards. We need a simple but workhorse. A surrogate, but reliable. Surrogate because:
1 . Personally, I definitely couldn’t keep the sizes.
2 . There is no reflector.
3 . I took a 50 ohm cable instead of 75 ohm, but with a thick braid. Friends usually used this cable for car antennas for 27 MHz radio stations.
Nevertheless, the antenna works quite well.

A digital signal has a peculiarity; it either exists or it doesn’t. When receiving analog television, different channels were shown with different levels of interference, and when removed, the level of snow on the screen simply increased until the signal disappeared completely. In digital, the signal is almost the same on all channels, and if there is reception, then there is all channels.
I have tested this antenna on more than a dozen TVs in our region.

So. We measure a piece with a total length of 112 cm and bend the wire. The first section is 13 cm + 1 cm for the loop (for strength). The second and third are 14 cm each, the fourth and heels are 13 cm each, the sixth and seventh are 14 cm each, and the last eighth is 13 cm + 1 cm stiffening loop.

We strip 1.5 - 2 cm at both ends, twist the two loops behind each other, and then solder the joint. This will be one cable connection pin. After 2 cm another. It doesn’t matter where to solder the central core or the braid.

Solder spacing 2 cm

I took about three meters of cable. In most cases, it’s enough if you don’t do it for yourself personally. For yourself, measure out as much as you need.

I stripped the cable from the antenna side by two centimeters, to the plug - 1 cm. If the plug is like in the photo. You can take any, stronger.

Stripping the cable

The plug was cleaned with a file and a scalpel.

After sealing, both soldering points are filled with glue from a gun. On the plug, first hot glue is poured into the soldering area and into the plastic cap, with a reserve; the excess can then be removed. Then, before the glue cools down, everything quickly comes together. You can’t gnaw such a joint with your teeth. Reliable, at the same time elastic.

The soldering on the antenna itself is also filled with glue, but for the rigidity of the structure, a frame is taken - any lid, box, .... I took the cap from a 20-liter water bottle, of which I had accumulated a sufficient amount. If you are making an antenna like me for mass production, then it is better to immediately use common materials that are literally lying under your feet for better repeatability of the antenna. If the antenna is made in a single copy for quick riveting, then you don’t have to fill anything at all.

The result is such a design that can be stuck anywhere - on a cornice, on a curtain, on a window frame. To do this, you can carry with you a piece of wire, a couple of screws, a couple of pins...

Antenna assembly

If the antenna is dented during transfer, it can be easily and without damage aligned. This is perhaps its main advantage.
I don’t always carry this design with me, but only when I receive a specific order to connect a DVB-T2 digital television tuner. It fits easily with the tool in my backpack.

It is more convenient to make several antennas at once. Takes less time.

This is how my friend fixed the antenna, using it as an outdoor one. The tower is about 9 km away. Reception is reliable despite the simplicity of the antenna.