Active and passive cooling systems for the processor and video card. Types of computer cooling and their descriptions What is better: passive or active processor cooling
A typical representative of passive cooling is the Palit GeForce GTX 750 KalmX family video card (photo 1).
The use of a passive cooling system in modern video cards inevitably leads to an increase in the size of the heat sink. Indeed, since heated air circulates less actively (naturally), to effectively dissipate heat and cool the graphics chip, video card manufacturers increase the surface area of the radiator.
However, radiators with an active cooling system are no smaller in size due to the presence of additional coolers, as well as a casing, which is responsible for rapid heat removal and proper air circulation. Thus, a representative of active cooling is the GeForce GTX 970 card model (photo 2). The three rotating fans are quite noisy when used intensively, but this is compensated by increased performance.
And yet, the undoubted advantage of video cards with passive cooling is that a missing cooler cannot fail. But the lack of sufficient air circulation in the system unit also leads to overheating of video cards with passive cooling.
Graphics card systems cooling efficiency and performance
In 2013, in Hong Kong, representatives of InnoVISION Multimedia Limited tested a new line of video cards with passive cooling.
According to the company's specialists, passive cooling of video cards is the optimal solution for both budget computer models and systems used by professional graphic designers.
The main advantage for a passive cooling system is that it does not produce noise while continuously cooling the video card. Moreover, although such a video card is inferior in performance to analogues with an active cooling system on average by about 20%, this difference is noticeable only under load. Under normal conditions the performance is the same.
In turn, new technologies for using low-noise coolers on plain bearings are trying to reduce the noise of active cooling systems. At the same time, the cost of such video cards increases.
So from the table below it can be seen that the efficiency of both active and passive cooling systems is stable and almost equal in temperature conditions (Table 1).
This indicates that there is no fundamental difference in the efficiency of cooling systems. It's about efficiency. Another thing is that in extreme operating conditions the active system is more dynamic, i.e. more productive. Although such operating conditions are contraindicated for video cards with both cooling systems, since both of them fail equally.
But if you play modern games (demanding on the GPU), make video editing, or in any other way frequently and seriously load the video subsystem, but do not want to give up the quiet operation of the passive cooling system, then perhaps you should opt for representatives of the family of video cards, which are described below .
Video cards with semi-passive cooling system
Recently, video card manufacturers have begun to produce video cards with an active cooling system that support passive operation during system idle (inactivity) or under light load (watching videos or working with office applications). In such semi-passive video cards, for example, ASUS GeForce GTX 750 Ti (photo 3), the cooler begins to rotate only when the GPU reaches a certain temperature. This implementation of combining the advantages of two cooling systems is very practical, however, the cost of such video cards today is somewhat higher than top-end cards with active cooling.
But no matter what cooling system you choose, the main thing remains the fact that video card manufacturers in the future do not plan to give up the low noise advantages of passive cooling systems, so the development of a line of so-called “hybrids” is the most optimal and promising solution.
Any computer or laptop needs a good cooling system to function properly. During operation, elements such as a processor (CPU), video card, and motherboard generate a large amount of heat and become very hot. The higher the CPU performance rating, the more heat it produces. If the PC does not quickly remove air, this can lead to various system failures, incorrect operation of equipment, decreased performance, and cause failure of important elements. Why does the processor get hot? How to cool the CPU in PCs and laptops? Which cooler to choose for optimal PC cooling? We will try to answer these questions in this article.
Reasons for CPU overheating
If the computer starts to turn off, glitch, or freeze, this may be due to overheating of the CPU. The reasons why a PC processor begins to overheat are very different. Therefore, we will consider the main ones, and also give simple ways to solve problems.
In most PCs and laptops, the main elements of the cooling system are the cooler (fan) and radiator, which are installed on the processor. Thanks to the tightest possible contact, heat transfer between the surface of the radiator and the processor is minimal, which in turn ensures fast, efficient heat dissipation.
The radiator can be monolithic or consist of two parts. In the first case, it is completely fixed on the processor (budget option), in the second case, only a small part of it is attached to the CPU, inside of which there are heat pipes that transfer heated air to the main radiator.
The primary role in the case ventilation and PC cooling system is played by the fan. Regardless of its location, it cools the entire radiator or its main part. The more efficiently it works, the better the heat dissipation from the CPU will be, and, accordingly, the lower its temperature. Heat pipe coolers provide greater CPU cooling.
If the processor starts to heat up, the main reasons include:
- deterioration of contact between the processor and the heatsink;
- speed reduction cooler (fan) operation;
- use of ineffective cooling systems;
- absence ventilation systems in the case, in the PC power supply;
- pollution ventilation holes housings with dust;
- failure cooling systems;
- wrong radiator fixation.
An increase in process temperature can also be caused by the fact that the cooler is trivial clogged with dust. For this reason, its speed and efficiency are reduced. The fan is simply not able to remove heat. To increase heat transfer, after replacing the CPU, it is worth purchasing and installing a new model of case cooler.
Another reason is upgrade PC. For example, after replacing an old CPU, a new, more powerful and productive one was installed. But at the same time, the fan in the cooling system remained the same. Due to the increase in power, the processor cooler simply does not fully cope with its task.
If the processor gets hot, let's consider what to do in this situation.
How can you cool the processor of a PC or laptop?
Overheating of the processor in laptops and desktop computers significantly increases the load on all system elements. To reduce heat generation and reduce energy consumption, you need to:
- check the condition of the cooling system, perform cleaning;
- reduce the load on the CPU;
- overclock the processor cooler;
- replace thermal paste;
- install additional coolers.
You can also reduce processor heat dissipation by BIOS settings operating system. This is the simplest and most accessible method that does not require much time or physical effort.
There are special technologies that reduce CPU frequency when idle. For AMD processor technology is called Cool'n'Quite, For Intel - Enhanced SpeedStep Technology. Consider how to activate it.
On Windows 7 you need to go to " Control Panel", select section " Power supply" In the window that opens, check which mode is active: “ Balanced», « High performance», « Energy Saving" To activate the technology, you can select any one, with the exception of “High Performance”. In Windows XP you need to select " Energy Saving Manager».
Energy Saving Settings must be enabled in the BIOS; if they are not, you can load the default settings.
It is equally important to pay attention to the system housing ventilation. If the cooling system is working properly and is regularly cleaned, but the CPU is still heating up, then you need to look to see if there are any obstacles in the path of air flow, for example, if they are blocked by thick cables.
The system unit or PC case should have two or three fans. One is for blowing on the front wall, the second is for blowing out on the rear panel, which in turn ensures good air flow. Additionally, you can install a fan on the side wall of the system unit.
If the PC system unit is in a bedside table inside the table, then do not close the doors so that the heated air comes out. Do not block the ventilation openings of the case. Place the computer a few centimeters from the wall or furniture.
You can purchase a special cooling pad for your laptop.
There is a large selection of universal models of stands on sale that adapt to the dimensions and size of the laptop. The heat-dissipating surface and coolers built into it will contribute to more efficient heat removal and cooling.
When working on a laptop, always keep your work area clean. The ventilation openings must not be blocked by anything. Objects lying nearby should not obstruct air circulation.
For laptops you can also do overclocking the cooler. Since a PC has at least three fans installed (on the CPU, video card, built-in storage), and most laptop models have only one. The second one can be installed if you have a powerful video card. In this case, you can overclock coolers:
- through special utilities;
- via BIOS.
Before increasing the fan speed, you first need to clean the cooler and motherboard elements from dust.
Cleaning the cooling system of a laptop or desktop PC should be done at least once every six to seven months.
Cleaning the cooling system
If the processor gets hot, check the condition of the fan and the entire PC cooling system. Dust is a serious enemy of any technology. Clogged between the edges of the radiator, dust, lint, and pet hair impair air circulation.
To thoroughly clean it, you need to disconnect the cooler from the power supply and disassemble it. By removing the fan, you can also clean the dust that has accumulated on the radiator. The radiator and cooler blades can be cleaned with a special plastic spatula or a stiff brush. After removing dust, wipe the radiator with a damp cloth.
In addition to removing dust from the radiator and cooler, wipe the wires located in the case from dust. Blow or wipe the vents on the chassis.
Replacing thermal paste
Upgrading and replacing the thermal paste on the processor will help reduce the heat generated by the processor. Thermal paste is nothing more than a lubricant for cooling the processor. It acts as a heat conductor between the CPU and the heatsink, eliminates microscopic irregularities of the contacting surfaces, and removes air between them, which impedes heat dissipation. Good, high-quality thermal paste will reduce the temperature by 5–10 degrees.
Over time, the paste dries out, loses all its properties, and does not cool the processor. Therefore, it needs to be replaced every six months. If your PC has a more modern CPU, the thermal paste can be changed less frequently. You can purchase it at any computer store. Thermal paste must be of good quality.
Before you apply the thermal paste that cools the CPU, you need to get to the processor itself. For this:
How to choose a good thermal paste
Given the large selection of thermal pastes, many are interested in the question of which thermal paste is better. Note that the difference between pastes from different manufacturers can be from ten to twenty degrees. It all depends on the quality characteristics and heat-conducting properties of thermal interfaces. A good thermal conductivity paste should have low thermal resistance and high thermal conductivity.
According to experts, for cooling the processor you can purchase:
- Arctic Cooling MX-4.
- Arctic Silver Ceramique.
- Noctua NT-H1.
- Prolimatech PK-1.
- Thermalright Chill Factor III.
- Zalman ZM-STG2.
- Glacialtech IceTherm II.
- Coollaboratory Liquid Pro.
Some pastes can also be used to overclock the processor. For example, Arctic Cooling MX-4, Glacialtech IceTherm II, Thermalright Chill Factor III, Coollaboratory Liquid Pro. Knowing which thermal paste is better, how often and how to replace it correctly, you can significantly reduce the temperature of the CPU, thereby extending its service life.
How to cancel CPU overclocking
Many users, in order to improve performance and speed up the CPU, overclock the processor (overclocking). But in some cases, this procedure significantly increases the load on the CPU, which can negatively affect its functioning and lead to a decrease in operating life.
To check the performance of the CPU after overclocking, you need to warm up the processor using special utilities.
If you are interested in how to remove CPU overclocking, go to CMOS and BIOS. Cancel all motherboard voltage settings, return them to normal configuration.
Actions are performed in the following sequence:
- We go into the BIOS by pressing the desired button when starting the computer.
- Select the item “ Set BIOS Default/Use Default Settings", press Enter.
- A window will appear in which you need to press the Y key.
- After this, the original settings that were set before overclocking the CPU will be returned.
- Now we save all the changes made and exit the settings.
- Reboot the computer.
This can also be done by selecting the option “ Restore Fail Safe Defaults", after finding out on the Internet the exact specifications of the installed motherboard and CPU. This is necessary in order to make changes by setting the basic frequency and voltage settings.
In addition, you can change the system bus frequency and multiplier settings to the base value, returning back all the parameters that were changed during overclocking.
You can also remove additional cooling hardware that you installed to prevent the CPU from overheating.
You can manage and monitor the operation of the processor using a special utility - CPU Core, where you need to specify and set the required values of the multiplier and bus frequency.
Installing additional fans
If the CPU continues to heat up after cleaning and canceling overclocking, then in order to increase cooling efficiency, we recommend installing additional fans on the case to increase air circulation. This is necessary if there are many heating elements inside the system unit or if there is a rather small amount of free space inside it.
Give preference to large-diameter coolers, which will provide greater air flow at lower speeds. Such models work efficiently, but are noisy. When installing, consider the direction of their operation.
CPU coolers are classified into:
- Boxed, without heat pipes. The most common models. Consist of an aluminum plate with ribs. May have a copper base with a fan attached to it.
- Cooling systems based on thermal aluminum and copper tubes. They function by removing heat, which is carried out due to the liquid circulating in them. They have high efficiency indicators.
When choosing fans for the cooling system, read the installation instructions, check its compatibility with the socket, motherboard, and which socket is available for the processor. Consider weight, fan size, radiator type.
Too large, high-power fans will create additional stress on the motherboard and may cause its deformation. As for the size, select the housing to match the tire, take into account the location of other components. Choose products from well-known, trusted manufacturers.
If a large number of hard drives are installed, you can additionally install a fan on the front panel of the case, as well as on the rear upper part of the system unit to remove warm air outside. Modern cases allow you to install at least two fans: from the bottom, if there is no perforation on the front panel, and opposite the location of the hard drives.
If the PC has very advanced hardware and the processor gets hot, you can remove the side cover of the system unit. In this case, the cooling efficiency will be increased significantly.
How to overclock a cooler
You can overclock the cooler, as already noted, through the BIOS or using special free utilities that will allow you to monitor and control the speed of the fans. The programs are designed for various types of processors.
Let's look at how to overclock coolers via BIOS:
For processors Intel programs will allow you to reduce or increase the speed of rotation of the cooler Riva Tuner, SpeedFan. They have great functionality, a choice of settings, a clear interface, do not take up much space, and automatically control the operation of coolers.
If third-party PC software does not allow you to adjust the fan speed, the processor cooler can be controlled using original utilities from the manufacturers. For example, in the HP leptota there is a program Notebook Fan Control, in Acer - Smart Fan, ACFanControl. In Lenovo - Fan Control.
Modern “advanced” cooling systems, which are most often used in overclocking, include: radiator, freon, liquid nitrogen, liquid gel. Their operating principle is based on coolant circulation. The intensely hot elements heat the water, which is cooled in the radiator. It can be located outside the case or be passive, operating without a fan.
Conclusion
This article discussed various causes of processor overheating and solutions to this problem. Sometimes the reason for its occurrence can be ordinary dust, which periodically needs to be removed, or the consequences of inexperienced overclocking of equipment, as well as its upgrade. When replacing thermal paste, you must be careful and careful not to damage the equipment.
Video on the topic
CPU cooling affects the performance and stability of your computer. But it does not always cope with the load, which is why the system malfunctions. The efficiency of even the most expensive cooling systems can be greatly reduced due to the fault of the user - poor installation of the cooler, old thermal paste, dusty case, etc. To prevent this, it is necessary to improve the quality of cooling.
If the processor overheats due to previously overclocked and/or high loads when operating the PC, then you will have to either change the cooling to a better one or reduce the load.
The main elements that produce the greatest amount of heat are the processor and video card, sometimes it can also be the power supply, chipset and hard drive. In this case, only the first two components are cooled. The heat generation of the remaining components of the computer is insignificant.
If you need a gaming machine, then first of all think about the size of the case - it should be as large as possible. Firstly, the larger the system unit, the more components you can install in it. Secondly, in a large case there is more space, which is why the air inside it heats up more slowly and has time to cool. Also pay special attention to the ventilation of the case - it must have ventilation holes so that hot air does not linger for a long time (an exception can be made if you are going to install water cooling).
Try to monitor the temperature of the processor and video card more often. If the temperature often exceeds the permissible values of 60-70 degrees, especially when the system is idle (when no heavy programs are running), then take active steps to reduce the temperature.
Let's look at several ways to improve the quality of cooling.
Method 1: Correct positioning of the case
The housing for productive devices should be large enough (preferably) and have good ventilation. It is also desirable that it be made of metal. In addition, you need to take into account the location of the system unit, because Certain objects can block air from entering, thereby impairing circulation and increasing the temperature inside.
Apply these tips to the location of the system unit:
Method 2: Clean from dust
Dust particles can impair air circulation, fan and radiator performance. They also retain heat very well, so it is necessary to regularly clean the “insides” of the PC. The frequency of cleaning depends on the individual characteristics of each computer - location, number of ventilation holes (the more ventilation holes there are, the better the cooling quality, but the faster dust accumulates). It is recommended to do cleaning at least once a year.
Cleaning should be done using a soft brush, dry rags and napkins. In special cases, you can use a vacuum cleaner, but only at minimum power. Let's look at step-by-step instructions for cleaning your computer case from dust:
Method 3: Install an additional fan
By using an optional fan that attaches to the vent on the left or rear wall of the case, you can improve air circulation inside the case.
First you need to select a fan. The main thing is to pay attention to whether the characteristics of the case and motherboard allow you to install an additional device. There is no point in giving preference to any manufacturer in this matter, because... This is a fairly cheap and durable computer element that is easy to replace.
If the overall characteristics of the case allow, then you can install two fans at once - one on the back, the other on the front. The first one removes hot air, the second one sucks in cold air.
Method 4: Speed up the fans
In most cases, fan blades rotate at only 80% of their maximum speed. Some “smart” cooling systems are capable of independently adjusting the fan speed - if the temperature is at an acceptable level, then reduce it, if not, then increase it. This function does not always work correctly (and in cheap models it does not exist at all), so the user has to manually overclock the fan.
There is no need to be afraid to overclock the fan too much, because... otherwise, you only risk a slight increase in your computer/laptop's power consumption and noise level. To adjust the speed of rotation of the blades, use the software solution - SpeedFan. The software is completely free, translated into Russian and has a clear interface.
Method 5: replace thermal paste
Replacing thermal paste does not require any serious expenditure in terms of money and time, but it is advisable to exercise some caution here. You also need to take into account one feature with the warranty period. If the device is still under warranty, then it is better to contact the service with a request to change the thermal paste, this should be done for free. If you try to change the paste yourself, your computer will be void of warranty.
When changing it yourself, you need to carefully consider the choice of thermal paste. Give preference to more expensive and high-quality tubes (ideally those that come with a special brush for application). It is desirable that the composition contains compounds of silver and quartz.
Method 6: installing a new cooler
If the cooler does not cope with its task, then it should be replaced with a better and more suitable analogue. The same applies to outdated cooling systems, which due to a long period of operation cannot function normally. It is recommended, if the dimensions of the case allow, to choose a cooler with special copper heat sink pipes.
Use step-by-step instructions for replacing an old cooler with a new one:
The Taiwanese company Thermalright is one of the leaders in the production of air cooling systems. The products of this company have been present on our market for a long time and are represented by a wide range of coolers for various purposes. One of the company's priority areas is, of course, the production of highly efficient processor coolers. Today our test laboratory received an unusual cooler. Its peculiarity is the ability to operate in passive mode, that is, without blowing by fans. At least, according to the manufacturer, this product is designed specifically as a passive cooler. We have to find out how well the radiator will cope with cooling a modern processor in the absence of airflow. So, the hero of our testing was the Thermalright HR-02 processor cooler.
In general, the idea of building the quietest computer possible is not new. Many users don't need extreme performance at the expense of noise and exorbitant power consumption. A home computer can handle multimedia tasks and not too resource-intensive games without overclocking at all. But a completely silent PC has a number of advantages. For example, you can queue downloads from the Internet at night and the computer will not disturb your sleep with its noise. In addition, the quiet operation of the system unit will be appreciated by connoisseurs of high-quality sound and owners of professional speaker systems. There are many more such examples that can be given, but let’s move on directly to the review.
Packaging and accessories
The cooler comes in a medium-sized cardboard box. The packaging design style is familiar to Thermalright products - a strict appearance of the box, no unnecessary pictures, windows or other marketing “tricks”.
The radiator itself is in a bag and tightly packed in a protective polyurethane foam form. The likelihood of damage during transportation is minimal. Accessories are in a separate box made of white cardboard.
A pleasant surprise for the buyer will be a fairly high-quality screwdriver supplied with the cooler.
The delivery set is as follows:
- user guide;
- sticker with manufacturer's logo;
- set of mounts for LGA 775/1155/1156/1366;
- brackets for mounting a 120 mm fan;
- brackets for mounting a 140 mm fan;
- crosshead screwdriver;
- cooler clamp key;
- anti-vibration corners for the fan;
Radiator design
The Thermalright HR-02 cooler was originally designed to remove up to 130 watts of heat from the CPU without the use of fans. Of course, this mode of operation requires a large area of heat dissipation. The radiator is a structure consisting of a copper base and six copper heat pipes piercing 32 perforated aluminum plates. Tube diameter 6 mm. The thickness of the ribs is 0.5 mm, and the intercostal distance is 3 mm. The radiator is completely nickel plated.
The total estimated radiator area is about 9770 sq. cm. For comparison, the area of the Noctua NH-D14 heat dissipator is 12020 square meters. cm. The thickness of the plates, the large interfin spacing and perforation in the plates indicate that the radiator is designed to operate in passive mode.
Undoubtedly, this is one of the largest (if not the largest) single-section tower coolers. The radiator looks massive even against the backdrop of the two-section Silver Arrow. It is also clearly noticeable how much greater the intercostal distance is in the HR-02 than in the “arrow”.
The workmanship is at the highest level. Taking this radiator in your hands, you get the impression that it is a cast part, and not a structure made up of many segments. All connections of the heat pipes to the base and fin plates are high-quality soldered. No “snot” in the form of solder drips was detected.
One of the features of Thermalright HR-02 is the non-standard arrangement of heat pipes. The entire radiator seems to be shifted to the side relative to the base. According to the manufacturer, this design should make operation more convenient and simplify user access to the case fans on the rear wall of the case. We looked from a slightly different angle and noticed that this design can allow the installation of memory modules with high heatsinks in all DIMM slots. Whether this is so, we still have to find out.
This form should not harm performance at all. The heat pipes are placed correctly and should distribute heat fairly evenly across the heatsink fins. If we are talking about installing a fan, then the position of the heat pipes will precisely correspond to the greatest air flow, bypassing the “dead zone” of the fan.
The base cannot be called ideal, but it is level enough to ensure more or less uniform heat dissipation from the heat spreader cover. If we compare the workmanship with the Noctua NH-D14 cooler, the Austrian company is still ahead.
The radiator base is polished to a mirror finish. Of course, the marks of the cutter are visible upon detailed inspection, but this is not critical for cooling efficiency.
In order not to disappoint fans of active cooling, engineers have provided the possibility of installing fans. When assembled with a 140mm Thermalright TY-140, the cooler looks like this.
The brackets are threaded into special holes in the radiator plates, then the fan is pressed. It is worth noting that this fan installation system is typical for all coolers from this manufacturer and it has one noticeable drawback. Installing or removing fan brackets requires dismantling the cooler. Again, Taiwanese engineers should pay attention to the NH-D14, in which the fan mounting is implemented more rationally and conveniently.
Well, the appearance and workmanship of the Thermalright HR-02 radiator are impressive. Let's look at the specifications and move on directly to testing. Installation and Compatibility
The heatsink can be installed on all Intel platforms. The mounting system is exactly the same as on all modern Thermalright processor coolers. First you need to attach the stiffener plate to the system board:
Then a mounting frame is installed, to which the radiator will be screwed. The frame allows you to install the radiator in any of four possible positions. This is very convenient as it makes the product more versatile. We chose a position in which we can install memory modules with high ridges.
The radiator itself is screwed on using two cap nuts and then clamped with a large bolt in the middle of the base.
The plates contain special holes designed for mounting the radiator using a screwdriver. It’s just not clear why it was necessary to make these holes so large, because smaller ones are enough for a screwdriver. Perhaps this was done for beauty, but the loss of working space is obvious.
The supplied brackets are designed for one 120mm and one 140mm fan. We used brackets from Thermalright Silver Arrow and installed two TY-140 fans.
And then another unpleasant feature of the fan mounting was discovered. The brackets prevent installation of high-comb memory in the first DIMM slot. Considering the design of the cooler, engineers could work on creating new brackets (following the example of Noctua or Prolimatech). Then the cooler would be even better, and the fan located immediately behind the RAM “scallops” would also provide ventilation for them.
Specifications
| Cooler model | Thermalright Silver Arrow | Noctua NH-D14 | |
| Connector | LGA775/1155/1156/1366 AM2(+)/AM3 |
LGA775/1155/1156/1366 AM2(+)/AM3 |
LGA775/1155/1156/1366 AM2(+)/AM3 |
| Radiator dimensions, mm | 102x140x163 | 147x123x165 | 140x130x160 |
| Radiator weight, g | 860 | 830 | 900 |
| Radiator material | Copper base and heatpipes, aluminum fins, all nickel plated |
Copper base and heatpipes, aluminum fins, all nickel plated |
|
| Number of plates | 32 | 55x2 | 42x2 |
| Distance between plates, mm | 3 | 1,7 | 2,5 |
| Fan model(s) | - | Thermalright TY-140 | NF-P12/NF-P14 |
| Fan(s) dimensions, mm | - | 160x140x26 | 120x120x25 140x140x25 |
| Weight of each fan, g | - | 140 | 170 |
| Fan(s) rotation speed, rpm | - | 900—1300 (PWM control) |
900—1300 900—1200 (using U.L.N.A. adapters) |
| Air flow, cubic meters f./min |
- | 56—73 | 37—54,1 48,8—64,7 |
| Declared noise level, dBA |
- | 19—21 | 12,6—19,8 13,2—19,8 |
| MTBF, thousand hours | - | n/a | >150 |
| Estimated cost, $ | 80 | 90 | 80 |
Stand and testing methodology
The test bench configuration was as follows:
- motherboard: ASRock P67 Extreme4 (Intel P67 Express);
- CPU: Intel Core i7-2600K ES ([email protected] GHz, VCore 1.45 V);
- RAM: Kingston KHX2333C9D3T1K2/4GX (2x2 GB);
- video card: HIS Radeon HD6950 2GB;
- hard drive: Western Digital WD6401AALS;
- power supply: Hiper Type RII 680W (680 W).
- thermal paste: Noctua NT-H1.
The processor operated at 4 GHz at 1.175 V with passive cooling and at 5 GHz at 1.45 V with radiator cooling. The Noctua NH-D14 cooler was also tested with Thermalright TY-140 fans, due to the fact that the latter are slightly more productive than its standard NF-P12 and NF-P14.
Test results
It’s immediately worth noting that all tested coolers were able to operate the Intel Core i5-2600K processor at a frequency of 5.0 GHz at a voltage of 1.45 V.
Analysis of the diagrams shows that the performance of the coolers tested in our laboratory is at a high level. The two-section “towers” of Noctua NH-D14 and Thermalright Silver Arrow are comparable in efficiency, with
slight superiority of the latter. Thermalright HR-02 is ahead of this tandem in fanless mode, but loses even more noticeably in active mode. Considering the features of its design, in particular the small number of radiator fins, this result is quite logical and natural. In the first case, the decisive role is played by competent design of the cooler, in the second - a smaller heat dissipation area.
Conclusion
The results of testing coolers in passive mode show a slight superiority of the HR-02 over its competitors, but the other two participants can also be used without airflow. Therefore, we cannot say that only models specially designed for this are suitable for passive cooling. Almost any highly efficient radiator with a large dissipation area is capable of providing normal heat dissipation without the use of fans. However, we should not forget that our test Intel Core i7-2600K processor is much cooler than, for example, LGA1366 processors, and there are not many powerful video cards with passive cooling on sale. That is, lovers of a silent computer will in any case have to take care of choosing the appropriate components. One way or another, the tested Thermalright HR-02 cooler will be an excellent choice when building a silent PC. If we talk about active cooling, then this product, although it shows good results, is far from optimal in terms of price/performance ratio. The HR-02, without fans included, costs about $80. In total, purchasing this radiator and an additional fan will cost significantly more than purchasing more efficient two-section coolers.
To summarize, we can unconditionally classify Thermalright HR-02 as a class of high-quality processor coolers. The product does not pretend to be a leader, but at the same time it has a set of rare qualities, thanks to which it will undoubtedly find its buyer.
The only serious drawback is its cost, but the Thermalright HR-02 Macho version has already entered the market, which is equipped with a fan and costs significantly less due to the lack of nickel plating. Perhaps Macho will soon get into our test laboratory, and we will check how important the nickel coating is, or whether it serves a purely aesthetic role.
Testing equipment was provided by the following companies:
- ASRock - ASRock P67 Extreme4 motherboard;
- Intel - Intel Core i7-2600K processor;
- Noctua - Noctua NH-D14 cooler and NT-H1 thermal paste;
- Thermalright - Thermalright HR-02 and Silver Arrow coolers.
Good afternoon, dear readers!
As I promised in the comments to the article “What you need to know about storage drives and data security - the 20 most important points,” today’s article will focus on computer cooling issues.
The relevance of the issue is very high. This is evidenced by the flow of letters I receive on this topic. And the point here is not only that a sunny and hot summer will come very soon...
The question is relevant in relation to both desktop computers and laptops, because absolutely any computer of absolutely any level needs cooling for normal operation. The only difference is that some devices generate more heat, while others generate less...
I offer today’s article to you in the form of a collection of the most important questions and nuances, as was the case in the previous article about hard drives, so that you can immediately understand the most important and important things without wasting a lot of time.
Yes, you cannot cover all aspects in one article, but I tried to collect everything that is especially important under one heading, so that the resulting material provides answers to the most critical questions.
So, let's begin!
Desktop computers
Let's start with the most important thing. Despite the fact that today more laptops are sold than desktop PCs, nevertheless, no one has given up on “desktop PCs” and is not going to give up in the future. In the end, it is simply impossible to replace a full-fledged desktop workstation with a laptop or something else.
As a consequence of its power, the issue of cooling desktop PCs is never removed from the agenda of ordinary users.
1. Main sources of heat.
These on a desktop PC are: processor, video card, motherboard elements (such as chipset, processor power...) and power supply. The heat release of the remaining elements is not as significant compared to the above.
Yes, a lot depends on the specific configuration and its power, but still, in proportional terms, little changes.
Mid-range processors can produce between 65 and 135 watts of heat; a regular gaming-grade video card can heat up to 80-90 degrees Celsius during operation, and this is absolutely normal for such productive solutions; The power supply can easily warm up to 50 degrees; The chipset on the motherboard can also heat up to 50-60 degrees, etc.
It is always worth remembering that the more powerful the components used, the more heat they generate.
The processor and video chip of the graphics card can be compared to the burners of an electric stove. In terms of heat release, the analogy is absolute. Everything is the same, only the chips can heat up much faster than the burner of a modern oven: in just seconds...
2. How important is this?
In fact, if, say, a graphics chip runs without cooling, then it can fail in a matter of seconds, or at most in a few minutes. The same goes for processors.
Another thing is that all modern chips are equipped with overheating protection. When a certain temperature threshold is exceeded, it simply turns off. But you shouldn’t tempt fate - here this rule is truer than ever, therefore, it’s better to avoid problems with cooling.
3. Everything is connected to the body...
We must not forget that all these “hot” components are located within the rather limited space of the system unit case:
Therefore: all these large amounts of heat should not “stagnate” and “warm up” the entire computer. This leads to a small important rule that must always be followed when organizing cooling:
“There should always be a “draft” inside the case.
Yes, the only way to correct the situation is when hot air is thrown outside the body.
4. Monitor temperatures.
Try to at least occasionally take an interest in the temperatures of computer components. This will help you identify and fix the problem in time.
The EVEREST program or SiSoftware Sandra Lite (free) can help you with this. These system utilities have corresponding modules that display the temperature of devices.
Acceptable "degrees":
CPU: an operating temperature of 40-55 degrees Celsius is considered normal.
Video card: it all depends on its power. Budget, inexpensive models may not warm up to 50 degrees, but for top-end solutions, such as the Radeon HD 4870X2 and 5970, 90 degrees under load can be considered the norm.
HDD: 30-45 degrees (full range).
Note: From my own experience, I can say that only the temperature of the above devices can be measured relatively accurately using software. And the state of all other components (chipset, memory, video card and motherboard environment) is quite often determined erroneously by measuring utilities.
For example, quite often you can find that some program shows the chipset temperature, say, at 120 degrees or the ambient temperature at 150 degrees. Naturally, these are not real values at which the computer would not work properly for a long time.
However, if you organize proper cooling inside the case using further advice, then I can guarantee that you simply won’t have to measure anything other than the temperature of the processor, video card and disk, because under the right cooling conditions they will not overheat.
So it will be quite enough to glance at the temperatures of the main components given above from time to time to monitor the general situation...
5. Good body...
Yes, the heat output of computer components can vary greatly. If we are talking about low-power “office” level machines, then yes - the heat generation will be small.
As for medium-performance and “top-end” solutions, which make up the majority of modern home desktop PCs, here the system unit can very well play the role of a heater.
In modern conditions, having a housing with sufficient internal space for air circulation is a necessity. And it doesn’t matter what the performance of your computer is.
In any case, both office and gaming PCs need normal air circulation inside the case. Otherwise, even a simple office PC may begin to overheat due to the formation of so-called “air jams” inside the case.
Air locks inside the case are the “household” name for the phenomenon when air flows (caused by fans and coolers) circulate incorrectly. For example: when heated air is not discharged outside; or if there is no fresh air supply to the housing; or when any fans are installed incorrectly, say if, due to a design feature, the CPU cooler
6. A little about furniture...
A special issue in the topic of high-quality cooling concerns furniture - your desktop.
The design of the table can either greatly impede cooling, or, on the contrary, promote maximum ventilation.
It’s one thing when the system unit is simply standing next to the table - there are no complaints here, except perhaps that it is strictly not recommended to place the system unit next to a heating radiator and heaters, and it is not recommended to place any other objects close to the system unit.
If there is any furniture or objects nearby, make sure that there are gaps of at least 7-10 cm on all sides of the system unit.
However, in most cases, the system unit is located not next to the table, not on the table, but in the table:
As you can see, in this case the space around the system unit is strictly limited by the table and the space for air circulation and outlet is a minimum...
Since the main ventilation holes in the system unit are located at the back, in front and on the left wall, I recommend moving the system unit relative to the table box to the right so that as much space as possible remains on the left (see picture above).
To avoid “air locks”: when all the heated air rises up and stays there, it is not recommended to close the door of the box for the system unit of your desk.
If all these points are observed, the cooling will be quite decent: hot air will accumulate at the top and leave the table under the influence of natural mixing (since there is a sufficient gap on the left).
In some cases, if your computer has very high-performance hardware, it is recommended to completely remove the left side of the system unit case - in this case, the cooling efficiency increases significantly.
For example, I did exactly the same thing myself, since my computer generates a lot of heat:
7. About the processor cooler.
This question is more relevant for high-end PCs. If we talk about low-power PCs, then there is no point in talking about coolers, because... Such a processor generates a little heat, and the standard one (that comes with the processor) is more than enough.
If you buy a processor and its name contains the word BOX, it means it comes fully packaged, which includes a cooler.
If you see an OEM mark in the price list, this means that upon purchase, you will not receive anything else except the processor itself.
Here we can give the following advice: if you are buying an inexpensive modern processor, then it is better to choose the BOX package. Ultimately, such a processor will not require a powerful cooler - the performance is low, and current technologies provide low power consumption, therefore, one cannot expect a lot of heat generation here.
And if you want to purchase some powerful model, say, for a home PC, then it is better to choose the OEM package - in any case, a standard cooler will not be enough for you.
Why is this happening?
Today, manufacturers, in my opinion, have become extremely negligent in their treatment of standard coolers - their dimensions and characteristics do not always correspond to the power of the processor. For example:
This cooler is included with dual-core and quad-core Intel Core 2 processors. Okay, for 2-core models it may be enough, but for 4-core models it’s clearly not enough...
In addition, if we touch on outdated models, then the situation is this: if you bought, say, a processor 3 years ago, then at that time the technologies did not provide such energy savings as they do now.
This is why, say, a quite inexpensive and low-power Pentium D from 4 years ago heats up even more than modern top-level Core i7s.
In this case, a good cooler is simply necessary. And I recommend installing a tower cooler on heat pipes:
Heat pipes- elements made of copper that penetrate aluminum (as in the photo above) or copper plates of the cooler and contribute to faster and more efficient heat removal from a hot processor. They provide much more efficient cooling compared to conventional coolers.
Heat pipe- the device is sealed, inside of which there is water that circulates through the tube naturally. This movement is aided by thousands of tiny “notches” on the inside of the tube, which allow the water to rise up.
Regardless of how powerful a processor you want to cool, I always recommend coolers with heat pipes only. Buying a regular cooler based on an aluminum or copper radiator is not justified.
It is the tower cooler on heat pipes that provides the greatest efficiency.
Another example of such a cooler:
8. Case fan - required.
The next thing that is necessary to organize proper cooling is the presence of a case fan.
Modern cases offer the ability to install at least two fans.
On the front panel: air can enter through the perforations (as in the photo), or from below - if the front panel is not perforated:
In this case, it turns out that the fan becomes directly opposite the hard drives and therefore performs two important functions: it supplies fresh air inside the case and cools the hard drives:
Having at least one case fan is a must for any computer! The fan “pumps” the air inside and prevents the formation of “air jams”.
Installing an exhaust fan on the rear side is not mandatory, but nevertheless, in some cases it helps to make the cooling system even better:
But do not forget that if you have a tower-type cooler installed, then in this case the cooler fan in most cases will be opposite the case fan socket on the rear wall (see photo below), with the only difference being that the cooler fan can located on the left or right side of the cooler
If (as in the photo) you do not have a case fan installed, then everything is fine. The cooler fan will either throw hot air into this hole or draw it from there (depending on the location of the fan on the cooler). In this case, it is better that it throws out already heated air there, rather than drawing it in.
In the photo, the location of the cooler is not optimal: hot air is thrown into the case, and not into the hole for mounting the case fan.
If you also want to install a case fan, make sure that the fan and cooler do not “conflict”, i.e. did not direct air at each other. Install the case fan so that it assists the CPU cooler.
Regardless of which panel you want to mount the fan on, I recommend ONLY using 140mm fans!
9. Cable layout.
A big problem for cooling is improperly routed cables. Being in a scattered state, they impede air circulation inside the case, sometimes to such an extent that even a powerful fan is not able to “pump” the entire volume of the case...
But when laying cables inside the case, do not overdo it! Do not bend excessively (to the point of bending) or create tension - this can damage the cables and lead to errors and malfunctions of the PC! Such cases are not rare...
Just try to organize the cables as compactly as possible. As much as possible:
10. Take care of particularly hot surfaces.
These are primarily video cards in a computer. Especially if we talk about such hot and powerful models as the Radeon HD 4870X2 and HD 5970.
Make sure that there are no cables lying on top of the video card:
It is very important! During operation, the video card can heat up to temperatures close to 100 degrees!
11. About thermal paste...
When installing a cooler, always use thermal paste. Under no circumstances should you place the cooler “dry”! Cooling efficiency will drop significantly...
You only need to apply thermal paste to the processor, in a very thin, translucent layer.
“The more thermal paste, the better the cooling” is the biggest myth among novice users!
Thermal paste is a connecting link; it connects the surface of the processor to the surface of the cooler, filling microscopic irregularities between these surfaces that may contain air. And air, as you know, greatly impedes heat removal.
And if thermal paste is applied in a thick layer, then it no longer turns into a heat conductor, but into an insulator - a thick “blanket” between the cooler and the processor.
You can apply it with anything: squeeze a small amount of paste into the center of the processor, and then spread it a little on the sides. Then proceed to install the cooler. The thermal paste will finally spread into an ideal layer only after you install the cooler.
Note: I show the cooler installation procedure in detail in a free course on self-assembly of a computer.
Many people argue about which toothpaste is better... From my own experience, I can say that the difference between different brands is minimal. Therefore, you should not pay attention to this.
For example, TITAN thermal paste is sold in these small tubes:
One such tube is designed for at least TWO uses.
If you follow all the above recommendations, your PC will essentially have no problems with cooling.
Laptops
12. Features of laptops.
All components inside the laptop are collected in an extremely small space of the mobile case. In addition to the processor, a laptop can be equipped with a powerful video card, hard drive...
These and other devices are separated from each other by a few centimeters, and at the same time there is no space for air circulation - there is simply no space inside the laptop.
This is why components almost always operate at elevated temperatures. Unfortunately, there is no way to fix this; However, you can protect the laptop from additional heating, thus extending its service life and saving it from critical overheating.
13. Workplace…
As I have mentioned more than once here on the blog - try, if possible, not to place the laptop on soft surfaces and laps, especially when you are working on resource-intensive tasks at the laptop (for example, photo or video processing). If this simple rule is not followed, overheating of the laptop components, including the battery, is guaranteed...
Try to place your laptop on a flat, hard desktop surface. At the same time, make sure that no objects lying side by side interfere with the air flow under and around the laptop:
In fact, this is the most important and most effective thing that can be done to avoid overheating.
14. Weather...
Do not work on your laptop in direct sunlight. They heat up its surface very quickly and very strongly (especially if the laptop is dark) and quickly warm up everything inside the case.
In this case, even damage to individual components due to overheating is possible.
And the last piece of advice that I would like to give in this article, for all users, regardless of whether you have a laptop or a desktop PC:
15. Clean dust regularly!
For desktop PCs: They accumulate dust very quickly. Try to open the system unit at least once every 6 months and clean all internal components from dust.
Dust prevents heat transfer from components and significantly impairs heat transfer. Dust can especially cause hard drives, video cards, and processors to overheat.
I would also like to mention the fans. Remember: a fan clogged with dust supplies air much less efficiently:
To clean the internal components, I usually use a brush and a slightly damp cloth. I categorically do not recommend using a vacuum cleaner! During the cleaning process, they may accidentally damage fragile components. This happens quite often.
Proceed with the cleaning procedure ONLY if the computer is turned off!
For laptops: Here the situation is somewhat more complicated...
The fact is that laptops have different cases: some provide immediate access to the cooling system so that you can clean the fan with a brush; and in some, to get to the fans you need to disassemble the laptop...
Here's the only advice I can give you: don't take apart your laptop unless you're sure you can put everything back together...
