Micro USB connector pinout. Replacing the connector, power socket To replace it, we need

Hi all. Today I will tell you in detail and show you how to change micro-USB connectors and other small things, on your knees,” i.e. at home, without special skills and special professional expensive paraphernalia and substances. Simply armed with inspiration, always helpful optimism, ingenuity, perseverance, patience and enough time.

Yesterday they brought me a smartphone for repair Lumia Denim 630 with a faulty power socket, with the words: “Shows charging - but doesn’t want to charge!” The smartphone looked monolithic, without screws and latches, I thought: Well, that’s a waste! Now you’ll have to warm it up with a hairdryer!”, although after fiddling around it turned out that it’s easy to open, since the insides are in a lid-“trough” that can be easily separated (on the internal latches). Those. Nokia developers have thought out everything in a military way.” For this I give them a tasty like!

The socket appeared to be in good condition outwardly, no cracks were found in the soldering joints, which means, as often happens, the fault lay in worn out contacts inside the connector. I decided to boldly change it to a new one. After the repair, I disassembled the old socket and, indeed, the contacts were covered in dirt, oily felt, and looked worn out. I forgot to take a photo, but in general what kind of dead connectors there are, look at the photo attached to the article.

A sure sign that the socket needs to be replaced

I bought the nests on Ali Express, in a bunch of about 100 pieces, 10 types, which is convenient.

Set of micro-usb sockets

I found something suitable, but not identical, which had to be modified and filed.

The nest needs to be adjusted

As it turned out later, despite the almost external similarity of the socket, the gold-plated contacts on it did not fit in height, that is, they hovered above the board! Take note!

I adjusted the socket, but did not notice the discrepancy with the original

I had to select a new nest, file it again, and adjust it again, since I didn’t have what I needed.

The nest needs to be adjusted

When adjusting, a slight misalignment of the socket was revealed, i.e. opening the fastening locks of the socket, which had to be put in place, soldered and slightly adjusted to the cover of the smart with a sharp knife.

The nest is adjusted

And all because the nests ordered in bulk are cheap, which means they are simpler, made of not very durable metal, in comparison with the original nests. Native nests, as a rule, are very expensive, made well, reliably, but you can’t stock up on them for any occasion. Ordering relatives in China and waiting tediously is problematic. I decided by dismantling the old nest, weighing the pros and cons, and comparing price tags in Ali.

For desoldering, I use a special hot air gun, although you can get by with a construction hair dryer, while being vigilant and attentive so as not to fry everything all around.

Soldering gun

Be sure to cover all plastic parts, capacitors, with confectionery foil or chocolate, otherwise they may melt! Then the damage to your smart phone may come suddenly and unexpectedly! 🙂 I.e. First, you warm up the entire board in a circular motion so that it doesn’t get driven by the propeller from the temperature difference, and then you heat the socket itself in a circular motion (about 300 degrees, check with a multimeter’s temperature sensor or using your intuition and your fingers). Before warming up, it is advisable to simply solder the socket with regular solder with flux or rosin (mix your tin with the factory one, this will make desoldering easier), since the factory solder on the board is often lead-free, which causes problems with soldering the socket.

By the way, for ease of work, I get by with an ordinary silicone pastry mat, since professional roads are expensive.

My soldering mat

It holds high temperatures and nothing slips on it, i.e. the thing is practical and appropriate. I also use a special board holder with alligator clips, with which I conveniently fix the board.

Board holder

I purchased the mat and holder from Ali. In general, you can do without them, including the consideration. 🙂

After desoldering, I use braid moistened with flux or rosin, leaning it with a soldering iron and moving them along the tracks and holes with tin, also pre-lubricated with flux.

desoldering braid

As a result, the braid absorbs all the interfering solder, leaving everything around clean (cool idea!). The only thing keep in mind is not to tear off the tracks and contact patches with the braid! This also happens! Be careful and take your time!

I forgot to say that desoldering the socket with a soldering iron is problematic and risky. Of course, with good experience, you can also desolder in a sophisticated way - with the help of one large drop of solder, covering the entire socket with it and making sure that you don’t “bump” or stick neighboring parts to your mega-drop, etc. But still, this is done masterfully by people with a full hand and experience. Another option is that earlier in workshops (when there were no hair dryers, during the USSR) special nozzles-stings were made (bought) for the necessary connectors and sockets, which made it possible to supply heat to all the required areas at once and easily desolder them. This was an excursion, but for you it’s still easier to use a hot air gun.

Special tips

Ideally, workshops successfully use a special microscope for soldering small parts. I use magnifying glasses, since I can’t afford a good microscope yet, and taking a cheap one is just a waste of money.

Illuminated magnifying glasses

I also use a set of clock screwdrivers for disassembly and assembly; I also use them with pleasure as convenient small cleaners (from rosin on the board), pickers, pushers, lifting element legs, etc. I bought it at the nearest hardware store for a symbolic amount.

Set of cheap watch screwdrivers

The varieties of tweezers that I purchased from Ali and Fix-Price help a lot.” In important cases, women's cosmetic tweezers may come in handy. 🙂

The tip of your family forty-watt soldering iron will need to be sharpened at an acute angle and with a slightly rounded end in order to carefully and effectively crawl up to the legs of the socket and painlessly for neighboring radio elements.

Sharpening the soldering iron tip

Or simply wrap copper wire around a tip and use it as a thin tip, in common parlance: “Mini soldering iron in a hurry”!

Mini soldering iron

It is advisable to buy a cheap power regulator for the lamps, which you will use to regulate the temperature of the tip, so that the rosin on the tip does not quickly turn into soot, so as not to overheat the conductive paths and so that they do not fly off.

Lamp power regulator

Of course, you can do it without a power regulator, but then you will have to solder with short touches so as not to overheat the tracks and tediously often clean the tip from black rosin oxides. And again - and this is the art of the possible, on the verge of risk. Decide for yourself.

Let's continue. Before soldering, I washed off the used flux from the board with a toothbrush soaked in alcohol (you can also use vodka, but it’s not quite suitable because of the oils), brushing it towards the edges of the board so that the old flux does not smear on the board, fly off the board and led to corrosion of adjacent copper tracks. In general, this generally applies to almost all fluxes, no-clean and neutral, and also applies to rosin, since they are all aggressive to one degree or another and their evaporation is harmful to health to one degree or another (ventilate the room!). Therefore, it is advisable to wash off with alcohol, detergents, etc., and scrape off the rosin and rinse with alcohol (under the rosin, it can also corrode the tracks!). Next, I looked to see if the contact pads were clean and soldered (there shouldn’t be a lot of solder, i.e. no slides, just soldering so that the socket lays evenly and is soldered), lubricated the soldering areas with flux (see the photo for flux), laid it down, taking aim.” carefully on the seats so that the socket then coincides with the back cover and solder, periodically replenishing the tip with solder. Well, or if your solder is in the form of a thin wire, bring it to the place of soldering with a tip. If you only have rosin, then simply pick up solder with a tip, then dip it in rosin and quickly, before the rosin on the tip turns into a disgusting black mass due to overheating, solder the necessary contact pins to the socket.

Afterwards, be sure to check how you soldered, whether everything looks nice, whether anything is sticking out, or whether there is a so-called. ,snot” between the contact pads, as this can cause a short circuit and is fraught with more serious damage to the device. Use a little braid, if you can’t remove the snot with a sting, it will take away excess solder and deposit tin under the socket leg. If a little remains, then lubricate the area with rosin and lightly use a sting to tear off the remaining tin between the contacts. But don't overdo it, the solder should be in the form of a sufficient droplet covering the contact for a strong contact. Do not skimp on flux (rosin) so that the soldering is electrically conductive (and not the so-called “cold” or “dry” soldering, which does not conduct current).

Now, partially, without screws, we assemble the smartphone, connect the cables, turn it on, check for functionality, if everything is fine, charging is in progress, the battery shows that it is accumulating charge, then we finally assemble it by screwing and closing the back decorative cover.

To clarify the process of replacing the socket, I cut you gifs from a video of a professional working. Look and listen.

Micro USB connector pinout— the technological process does not stand still. Modern models of various digital devices are strikingly different from their older counterparts. Not only their appearance and internal equipment have changed, but also the methods of connecting to computers and chargers. If only 5-7 years ago many phones and even cameras did not have this capability. But at the moment, absolutely every digital device can be connected to a personal computer or laptop. Phone, player, smartphone, tablet, video camera, player or camera - they are all equipped with connectors that allow you to connect them to other devices.

Micro USB connectors. Types of USB connectors, their features

But, as you can easily see, the connector is different. And for some reason the cord purchased with the phone cannot be used with your favorite player. As a result, a bunch of cables accumulate, you constantly get confused in them and cannot understand why it was impossible to make one wire suitable for connecting all devices. But, as we know, this does not happen. Although now there is a more or less standard connector, at least for smartphones, phones and tablets. And its name is micro-USB. What is this miracle and how does it work, how is it done micro usb connector pinout, we will tell you below.

Micro USB connector: what is it?

The two most popular connectors lately are mini and micro-USB. Their names speak for themselves. These are smaller, more practical designs that are used on smaller digital devices to save space and perhaps create a sleeker appearance. For example, a micro-USB connector for a tablet is almost 4 times smaller than a standard USB 2.0, and considering that the device itself is several times smaller than a personal computer or even a laptop, this option is simply ideal. But there are also some nuances here.

For example, more can never be made into less, so micro-USB connectors cannot even be replaced with mini-USB. Although in some cases the reverse process is acceptable. And replacing a micro-USB with your own hands is unlikely to end in anything good. This is such a fine job, and besides, you need to know exactly how it’s done. micro usb connector pinout. In addition, the word “micro” covers several types of connectors, and you need to remember this. Especially if you are trying to buy a new wire. Your tablet's micro USB may not be compatible with the connector on the end of the cable you purchased.

Varieties

Micro-USB connectors can be of two completely different types. They have different areas of application and, accordingly, they look different. The first type is called micro-USB 2.0. type B - it is used in devices by default and is an unspoken standard for the latest models of smartphones and tablets, because of this it is very common and almost every person at home has at least one micro-USB 2.0 cable. type B.

The second type is micro-USB 3.0 - these connectors are not installed on tablets, but can be found on smartphones and phones of some brands. Most often they are used to equip external hard drives.

Advantages

The main advantages of micro-USB connectors for tablets include increased density and reliability of the plug. But this fact does not exclude the possibility of problems with these particular components, especially with inept attempts to make repairs and pinout the micro USB connector. Most often, the cause of breakdown is the carelessness of the owners of digital devices themselves. Sudden movements, tablets and phones falling onto the floor or even asphalt, especially on the side where the connector itself is located, attempts to correct something with your own hands without the appropriate knowledge - these are the main reasons why even the most durable parts of USB ports fail out of service. But it happens that this happens due to wear and tear of the device, improper operation or manufacturing defects.

Most often, the cause of malfunction is either the micro-USB connectors themselves, or the parts adjacent to them and connected to them in a circuit. For any experienced craftsman, replacing it is a matter of minutes, but not everyone can do it at home. If you are still interested in how you can repair the micro-USB connector yourself and how it is done micro usb connector pinout(or, in other words, desoldering). Then you need to understand that this process, although not the longest and most difficult, if you approach it wisely and preliminary reading of the relevant information. Some tips will be given below.

Micro USB connector: micro usb connector pinout

As you know, with ordinary ports and connectors everything is simple - you just need to take an image of the front part of their connector, but in a mirror image, and solder it. With USB mini- and micro-types everything is a little different. Their connectors contain 5 contacts, but on connectors of type B, contact number 4 is not used, and on type A it is closed to GND, which occupies the fifth place.

Functions of the “legs” of the micro-USB connector

Since most modern tablets have micro-USB, which serves not only for charging, but also for synchronization, problems with it arise more often due to the more frequent use of the connector.

So, as mentioned above, a regular micro-USB connector has five “legs”. One is positive, at five volts, and one is negative. They are located on different sides of the connector and, accordingly, suffer less when separated from the motherboard. Only one “leg” of the connector, which more often than others is pulled out of the contact pad, is subject to more wear. It is located closer to the minus “leg”. If this contact is damaged, the device cannot be charged. That is, the system can see the power supply, but the charging process will not occur.

The remaining two “legs” are responsible for synchronization, that is, for the ability to upload and download photos, music, etc. They do this at the same time, so the separation of one will entail the cessation of the work of the second.

Knowing the functions of the “legs”, you will be able to determine which contacts are causing you to have problems and which of them you will need to solder to get your tablet back into operation.

Incorrect pinout of the micro USB connector or incorrect replacement of it - consequences

Having soldered micro-USB incorrectly, owners most often encounter the following problems:

1. Short circuits of the power supply if they soldered the inverted type.
2. The tablet detects the charging cord, but the battery (battery) does not charge.
3. The tablet's battery charges perfectly, but it does not sync with a laptop or computer.
4. The tablet works fine, but sometimes it “reminds” you that you should take it to a workshop instead of soldering it yourself (for example, charging does not start immediately after turning it on, or sometimes the cord needs to be pulled out and reinserted several times before charging starts).

The Future of Micro USB

Since these are some of the most popular ports today, if you learn how to change them once and learn how to do it micro usb connector pinout, this skill will help you out very often in the future. And let them not be accepted as the “gold standard” in the development of phones and other digital devices. And we still have to have a whole collection of wires specifically for an Acer laptop, for a Samsung phone, for an Apple iPad and a Nikon camera, but the active use of micro-connectors gives us hope that soon instead of a “bouquet” we will have one on our shelf micro-USB cable suitable for at least 90% of the equipment in the house.

What types of USB connectors and plugs are there?

Mini USB on the left, Micro USB on the right.
Mini USB is much thicker, which makes it impossible to use
it in compact thin devices.
Micro USB is easy to recognize by its two notches,
holding the plug firmly when connecting.

Three brothers of the same family.
Mini USB and Micro USB are much thinner than usual.
On the other hand, the “crumbs” lose
in the reliability of an older comrade.

In this article I will tell you how to correctly change the charging socket on a micro USB phone or tablet. This method has been developed over the years, and in my opinion is the fastest and most reliable.

So, let's begin.

To replace we need:

  • Active soldering flux or weak soldering acid, you can also use aspirin tablets, just be careful the smoke is caustic.
  • I buy flux RMA-223 in syringes here: http://ali.pub/lqw23
  • Soldering station is any where there is a hair dryer and a soldering iron.
  • Suitable micro usb connector.
  • Tin in a coil, preferably 0.3mm, I take it here: http://ali.pub/mieuo
  • You can buy tweezers where I get them.
  • Well, that's all it seems

We leave only the charging connector uncovered with foil and begin to warm it up with a hairdryer, so that the entire contact area with the board is heated. I make quick circular movements and after about a minute, a minute and a half, the socket is easily removed from the board with tweezers.

Next, we need to prepare a new charging socket; for this we treat all contacts with active flux and solder the contacts with a soldering iron. After soldering, the connector needs to be washed from the active flux; for washing, I use “Galosha” liquid, sold in construction stores. After this, the charging socket is ready to be installed on the board. We warm up the installation site and carefully install the new connector with tweezers, heat until the connector contacts on the motherboard are covered with tin and the socket is in place.

That's all, dear friends, subscribe to my youtube channel, like and visit us again, I have a lot of interesting things for you.

Here are some video examples.

Replacing the charging socket on a Lenovo s6000 tablet:

Replacing the charging socket on a philips xenium e632 phone:

Phone, tablet, laptop not charging? We will replace the power connector with a guarantee!

Replacing the connector on the phone;

  • MicroUSB replacement time is 1-2 hours.
  • Phone jack replacement cost 600 rubles
  • Attention! The price is for collapsible phones with a removable battery.

Replacing the connector on the tablet;

  • The USB replacement time on the tablet is 1-2 hours.
  • Tablet charging socket replacement price 800 rubles
  • Attention! The price indicated is for connectors not on the cable.

Replacing the laptop power socket;

  • The time required to replace a laptop power connector is 1-4 hours.
  • Cost of replacing laptop charging connector from 800 rubles
  • Attention! The timing is based on the availability of spare parts.

Replacement of USB connector, laptop port;

  • The time required to replace a laptop USB port is 2-3 hours.
  • The cost of 1 connector is 1200 rubles.
  • The cost of the 2nd and subsequent connectors is 500 rubles.

When should the power connector be repaired?

  • The device does not charge and does not respond to charging.
  • There is obvious damage to the power connector.
  • The device charges only in a certain position.
  • The device shows charge, but does not charge.

Types of charger connectors:

  • Micro usb (micro usb) connectors, its replacement.

As a rule, the micro USB charging connector is soldered into the motherboard, but in many Samsung models, the charging connectors come along with the entire lower board (it also contains the microphone and antenna of the phone) because of this feature of the phone, the repair cost is higher than just changing the connector (Samsung is indicated As an example, this feature is found in all brands of phones).

  • Mini USB charging connector and its replacement.

This type of connector is used much less often on old phones and Chinese phones (more often found on e-readers and navigators). It is soldered into the motherboard; you need to carefully remove it with a soldering iron or hairdryer and install a new one (do not try to install the old connector).

  • Replacing the charging connector on an iPhone Lightning (or 30-pin in older iPhone models)

On iPhones, changing the charging connector is easier, without the participation of soldering stations, just disassembling and installing the lower cable (there is also a microphone on it) both on old iPhones and on new ones.

  • There are also other connectors, as on old Nokia, Sony Ericsson phones, and on new Samsung models, they are less common, the principle of operation and replacement is the same, the appearance is just different.